Have you researched the 210? It’s a dang good compressor.
Yes, It’s so great the Oasis uses the same compressor. From what Dan’s saying, they have it modified to use less oil and be more reliable. Pair that with a powerful motor and electronics in a nice boltable package and you get what you pay for.
If you
[a] have room (i sure dont)
[b] have HP to spare (i sure dont)
[c] feel like making up the brackets and planning out the belt situation (i sure dont)
Then go ahead and get a York 210 for $200 (or under). I’d love to go that route, but for me the benefits don’t weigh enough to off set the trouble.
Oh, I’m not saying the Oasis is a bad compressor. I thought it was a York, but I couldn’t remember. HP to spare? it doesn’t draw HP unless it’s on. I plan on running it on a 3 banger 55hp Geo Metro. 
The oil isn’t really a problem, they make oil/air separators that do a good job getting rid of oil.
Don’t you have to upgrade your electrical system to run a Oasis?
Yeah, you need to upgrade the electrical to run the Oasis.
By HP I meant that my truck has the same drag (from the alternator) whether my compressor(s) are running or not. The York will draw power from the motor. Not a big deal for most, but when you’re trying to put down the power- that little bit of drag matters.
As a side note- you may find that Geo can’t get out of its own way when the York’s clutch is engaged.
If my automotive knowledge is correct, this is false.
Oh, the York won’t be run unless i’m already moving, or sitting still.
The mechanical load the alternator presents to the engine is the same regardless of the electrical load presented to the alternator. You turn on more things, the alternator doesn’t suddenly drag more on the engine.
The overall current draw from any DC powered compressor is the same, ours just does it faster. It would take quite a few of the smaller compressor to equal the performance of ours and then your drawing just as much current, paying just as much, and taking up more room.
I’m gonna go ahead and disagree.
Here’s an example. Think of when you give somebody a jump start and they have a dead battery. (one that will accept a charge) When you make the final connection it pulls your idle down. That drag is caused by the alternator.
I’ve also had a big enough stereo to feel the loss of power pulsate with the beat during acceleration.
The idle pulling down is due to overall system voltage drop. You loose voltage at the ignition/fuel pump/etc… which causes the idle drop.
I’ve done the following experiment twice, same results. Alternator is disconnected from the truck, isolated. Trucks running off battery power. Present a load to the alternator, trucks RPM doesn’t change, monitored digital via OBD2 port.
I could maybe understand the voltage drop thing. I’ll give ya that.
But I’ve actually felt the alternator pull with the beat of my woofers.
Full disclosure - this was during a time I may have had a short in a speaker wire.
But it was electrical in nature and it even kind of made your head bob front & back.
This is an interesting topic. I’ll stop cluttering up Geo’s thread & do some research…lol
Sorry for the threadjack
Jack it all you want… (that sounds terrible)
I can’t agree with DJ on this at all, i’m certain it doesn’t work like that. If it did, we would run all alternators at 100% all the time.