If you’re temporarily using the 1/8" solenoid from tyour 1510 - you will hear a world of difference when you get your new one. Hopefully you bought a 1/2" solenoid.
Then just use the nipple (that’s already in the picture) to screw right into the new valve.
If you don’t have room to mount the cross to the valve, use the same size line as what feeds the valve…at least 1/2" O.D.
Yes i’ve bought a 1/2" solenoid which is on the way to me.
And i’m still a little confused about what the seller said (5/8" orifice), but i think he was referring to the inside orifice…
I realized i made a mistake today measuring the inside of my connector, i had to measure the inside of the tubing… the effective ID of the tubing is .24" (to each horn).
Anyway… what i still don’t understand about my today’s try is that you said .32" ID is the size lots of people use… actually my line (visible in the trunk of my car) is made with nylon tubing of .32" ID.
Solenoid has 1/8" outlet but the connector takes that .08" so we can say that it is a .24"… hope that’s the problem… maybe it’s because i used such a big X 
I spoke to the guy inside the hardware store today about my future line and i found out DOT tubing he has doesn’t have such a big ID. He said maximum .32" for the 1/2" tubing.
He also had bigger ID ones but then he couldn’t retrive me the correct connectors.
Keep talking he said that he has bigger connectors but for nylon tubing, which is also cheaper.
I told him i hate nylon and he agreed but gave me a choice… still deciding…
Isn’t it better to use brab connectors and then a good rubber tubing?
My X has a male-to-male connector (you called it nipple) which has an orifice of about .79", wouldn’t it be nice??? That would be a BLAST.
BTW my plan was just doing what you described, i have enough room under the hood to connect the solenoid directly on the X. I think individual horn tubings will be about 20".
In this pict you see the medium horn installed on the passenger side (facing the driver side). It was too big to be placed where i planned.
In this pict you can see both big and medium horns
I placed the small horn behind the front bumper on the driver side, well hidden, facing down.
Yes 5/8" is the internal orifice diameter.
Trade name for a male x male is a nipple.
Trade name for a ‘big X’ is a cross.
The .24" I.D. is probably 3/8" O.D. which is perfect for the individual bells.
I can almost guarantee that your lack of volume is due to the 1/8" solenoid valve.
There have been a couple people lately upgrading from their 1/2" O.D. DOT tubing. You can use 5/8" O.D. DOT tubing or even 1/2" I.D. rubber air hose. They say it makes a difference.
You’re moving right along though.
Err uh-huh huh, uh-huh huh, you said “nipple”! (said in my Beavis and Butthead voice) LOL
I have friends that look at me stupid when I’ve said anything in the past about needing a pipe nipple. Sounds like a normal term to me, but I guess to someone not familiar with pipe would think that was a weird term.
Err uh-huh huh, uh-huh huh, I said “familiar with pipe”. haha
Eheh, i love Beavis and Butthead that’s exactly what i thought when i read it 
Here 5/8" is not used, i can find 1/2" OD and 3/4" OD, then 1". I don’t think upgrading to 1" makes sense…
I read on an irrigation tubing that i have (for irrigation purposes) it holds 120psi maximum.
The barb connector is 3/4" (fitting) but metal seems too thin… i don’t like it.
The biggest ID tubing my man has is 13mm which is .51".
Since i wanna do it right i prefer to make one correct choice, but i wanna make it once, definitive. I only have to find things… here is very hard to find pneumatic accessories.
If you don’t have a local pipe and tubing supply house in your area you may have to search online for a supplier for the size tubing and fittings you want. You can try Grainger or McMaster-Carr online but you should be able to find better pricing elsewhere.
13mm ID tubing is the same as what people are upgrading to for increased air flow.
If you can get fittings I would do that.
Are you going to eventually run 150psi?
Also keep in mind that pipe does not actually measure the same as it’s designation.
For instance 1/2" pipe measures .84" OD. 3/4" pipe measures 1.05" OD.
Then the ID depends on the wall thickness.
Converting Metric to English is bad enough without pipe sizes that don’t mean what you think they would. A guy could get lost…lol
I agree - do it right the first time.
I am actually lost indeed… as far as i understood here when i ask for a size they’re giving me the OD size, what changes is the ID. And i also agree it depends by the tickness of the wall.
The only chance i have is to find some 1/2" barb hoses and then i can look for the pipe. Then tight it up with clamps. Snap-in connectors are useless and hard to find for that size.
That’s what i need
I’ll keep you posted!
I went to the shop i usually go to and i insisted to see the barb hoses.
I found a 1/2" brass hose with .79" ID and then found the correct pipe.
Problem with this pipe is that OD is 1.18" (gosh).
$4 per meter (double gosh).
I bought the hoses and then i’ll buy the pipe (i’m gonna need at least 4 meters).
That’s the same ID of the original manifold
this looks noise! =)
Since i’m having problems building my own tank i went to the fire extinguisher shop where i got my 2 gallon tank and they gave me a 4 gallon (maybe 5) tank.
The hole was 1/4" so they kept the valve-handle.
I bought a 1/2" female-female and i made it weld directly on the fire extinguisher.
The guy at the shop assured me that kind of welding is ok, they often restore damaged extinguisher that way and never got any kind of problem.
I’d like to merge both the extinguisher and my custom tank, but i’ll have to put the custom tank project aside for a while.
I haven’t bought the tubing yet nor the solenoid has arrived. 
kinda sad.
Actually, as i said, i have the bigger horn on the old line… it is loud but… i don’t know… it’s not what i was expecting from that horn. I’m honking at 120psi, i got big echo but that’s it… no such a blast nearby. Just my impression???
I am replacing my radiator since the old one is gone… so i took some pics to show you all better how i placed the horns
The little horn is placed under the driverside headlight, i took it off because i had to remove the headlight…
Alright guys, this morning i finally found the missing part in the mail… “the solenoid”.
I went to the shop, bought the pipe, the hardware to fit the pipe to the barb connectors, a 1/2" T and a 1/2"-1/4" reduction.
For the tank i used another bigger fire extinguisher, but this time i welded a 1/2" female on it.
Then i used the female T with a nipple, on one hole i put the barb and on the other one the 1/4" reduction for the compressor.
Then i passed the pipe all under the car from the trunk to the engine bay and then i connected it to the solenoid. The solenoid directly to the cross. Then i used three 18" small pipes for each horn.
I’ll put some pics and some vid soon, but man, during tests i almost become deaf.
The bad part is that now i don’t have any gauge on the system so i cannot check the pressure.
I was planning to buy a digital one but hornblasters charges too much to ship overseas so i have to find one elsewhere.
The digital one gives me the chance to install the sensor directly on the tank, the old gauge had the pipe on a T inside the engine bay so now it is useless.
GEEEE I LOVE THIS HORN!!!
Even if i think it doesn’t sound exactly as it should.
I’ll let you know soon.
This is the solenoid hooked up to the cross.
This is the fire extinguisher mod.
It is temporary… i’ll ask my bodyshop to paint it when i’ll be fixing my rear bumper. Looks like junk but honestly welding is good and deep.
I’ll add more outputs because i have to install the pressure gauge, the security valve and maybe some extra output to inflate tires… who knows…
The pipe i used is 19mm ID and 30mm OD, paid 4$ per meter… bought 5 meters.
Unfortunately the BIG delay of the solenoid arrival made me keep my tools in the trunk and i even removed my spare tire… so now somehow the trunk carpet is ruined (the hard sheet inside is broken in pieces) and now i have to replace it.
I’m thinkin about fixing the tank on the trunk roof because there’s a “blind spot” you don’t see when you open the lid… and then maybe cover it with dark carpet, so even if police open the trunk would not notice it…
Any thought?
Do you know when they say “you get what you pay for”?
Well, i blew my compressor a couple of days ago.
After a 10min use it refused to work, so i checked the fuse and it was gone, so i replaced it and it made a strange noise, like cranking… just 4 or 5 seconds and then it stopped. Fuse melt once again!
I opened the motor, i cleaned it all and reassembled and now it doesn’t work at all.
I’ll have to buy a new one.
I’m gonna buy a viair this time!!!
that sucks. learned the same thing too. bought a chinese compressor. worked for like two weeks before things inside started rattling. bought another one and modified it so that the weak parts inside were strengthened. worked for a couple months.
gave up and bought a 275C. been working no problem for more than a year and a half now. 
how big is your tank? and how long does it take to fill it to 150psi?
Found a 275c on ebay for 75 bucks and i’m interested…
That sucks man - hope you get another one soon.
system on my sig.
0-125psi in 3min 30sec
refills in under a minute. I don’t think a 275C is enough for a K3 but it depends on how often you honk them.
You have a 2 gal tank, that’s what i had in my previous system, now i upgraded it to 5gal tank (not sure it is 5, maybe 4gal… but i like to think it is 5).
The broken compressor took around 5 minutes to fill up to 125psi.
Btw the guy refused to ship overseas… i hate the fact that some items are only sold in the US and to import those items i have to pay a lot of money for shipping and then our custom charges the 20% on the grand total (including shipping).
I’m not a brutal honking… i just honk everynow and then when i see people in groups…