Ummm how bout the switch has gone bad in the closed position…completed circuit…compressor is running
It looks like I typed it bass ackwareds “open vs closed” I think the content is correct. But did you say that the compressor is still running when you turn the key off or did you have to pull the fuse to stop it?
I have the system rigged to a button and NOT a toggle switch. Therefore I also have when my key is on I have the compressor to run as long as the tank is NOT full. Always when the tank is full the compressor stops which takes approximately 2-3 minutes. I turn my key off and it all stops. I took the fuse out because I don’t want my compressor running at all until I figure the problem out. I called HornBlasters and the guy also seems to think it is the Pressure Switch.
Ok cool
I have never had a gauge on my setup, it’s been about 2 years now. Where do you have your gauge located on your setup if I decide to get one?
Right now it’s in my 2nd glove box because I can’t find the right size holesaw to cut my dash. You can put it anywhere as long as it fits. I recomend the wire conection not hose. It’s just two wires, a ground, and a dimmer wire if you want to use it.
An $8 pressure gauge vs. the value of your ride (prob 10k-40k) or maybe someone’s life if your tank lets go. I’d get the gauge and find out what is going on in that rolling bomb you are driving.
If you have a bad pressure switch, the only thing keeping you safe is a $2 blowoff valve.
Just my opinion, but a blown tank is a very expensive and preventable event.
Seriously, did you see that big shark blown up at the end of Jaws? He too, trusted his pressure switch. (Later sharky)
If a four ton carcharodon can’t handle compressed air, what chance do we simple primates have??? Ditch the switch.
I would believe the pump would deadhead and couldn’t pump no more air into the take at a far less pressure then the tank would hold. That being said the blow off valve would prevent both all together. The pump would more then likely burn up due to duty cycle on pump. But I could be wrong
u need to hurry up and fix this… the suspense for the problem is killng me. i wanna know what it is already.lol
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Absolutely. Catastrophic failure of the tank or seizure of the pumps are both “un-good” results. Why speculate? Get a gauge and test the system. If the pressure switch is bad, get rid of it.
You will be the first one I tell when I get my pressure switch. Ordering it now
which one did u order?
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i think i’m going to go with the same one I have 40A 165-200 PSI, don’t really feel like changing out the sizes
before I order it I think i’m going to find a gauge around here and might try to see what it’s reading first.
ya a gauge is pretty cheap… u should def find one and then just hook it straight up to one of the tanks ports for a reading…
I’m still a little confused so what if the gauge reads like 160 PSI? and it’s letting air out? What reading would tell me the pressure switch is no good?
I’m alittle confused now also. What do you mean still letting air out? Is that the safety valve popping, or the solenoid working when you blow the horns? What PSI is you safety valve rated at? I remember you talking in the beginning about still being to honk the horns while this problem was occurring. The solenoid is a separate system in its self. As long as you have PSI in the tank and power to it, it will work if it’s not bad. As far as the gauge reading and when the switches are supposed to shut the compressor down. Not a lot of money is put in to these switches and some gauges are better than others. That’s why most of them don’t cost an arm and leg to buy. The accuracy can differ from switch to switch and the same with gauges. I still have two switches and there is a 3 PSI difference between them. Factor in the error factor of both gauge and switch, with a 165/200 your switch can call for the compressor to shut down anywhere from 158 to above 200 PSI. If you are not seeing PSI reading in these ranges on your gauge with the 165/200 switch you could have a compressor problem. I doubt it, I still think it’s your switch. Lets us know what PSI you are maxing out on with your old switch in place.
2 things the gauge is going to tell you.
a)If the compressor runs 5 maybe 10 psi above where the pressure switch is supposed to shut off - then you have either a bad pressure switch or a stuck relay. You don’t have a stuck relay because when you shut your key off, the compressor shuts off - correct?
b)It will tell you for sure what pressure your safety valve is popping at.
Knowing those 2 things will tell you what to do next.