… Is that at a specific RPM of the compressor/engine?
From my understanding with engine driven compressors, there is no electric motor driving the compressor, and let’s assume the engine won’t slow down if load is increased (engine computer compensates or you press the gas more). Withe electric compressors, the motor will lug down a bit at some point.
So the only thing that matters when it comes to the CFM of these is the RPM. Pressure doesn’t matter unless the compressor is pumping so hard that seals start to leak or whatever.
You can convert Cubic feet per minute (CFM) to milliliters (or c.c., 1ml=1cc), and you can look up on your compressor what the displacement is per revolution…which is usually in ml/revolution.
Take it all out to the amount of rotations per minute and amount of displacement per minute and then convert to CFM and you have your number…right!?
It’s a shame someone hasn’t figured out how to use the actual pressure of the engine. Most engines are between 120-150 compression ratio. If they could figure out how to get that without hurting or harming the motor. You know you don’t want to hurt the performance of something that gets you to and from the places you play your horns.
Using one of the engine cylinders was how some people would air up tires in the past. It may still be in practice today. They would remove a spark plug and connect a hose.
I’d say refer to that manual’s specs and see if the ports have a description for thread size. Then check Grainger or McMaster-Carr for thread adapters if needed. Tubing would work for the intake side but use about 3 feet of stainless steel braided hose on the discharge side before using the tubing.
OK. So I can use oil designed for the compressor, like r134a, PAG etc… (whatever it is designed for), and have an oil vapor collector from Mcmaster-Carr that costs $73.82 for a 3/8" NPT size, (product# 5757K62 under their “Oil Vapor- and Oder-Removal Air Filters” section) and have to deal with adding oil to the crankcase and draining the filter.
Or, I could use ‘high temperature grease’, which has molybdenum and/or graphite in them, which act as emergency lubricants. I would think this might work out well as long as the moly gets everywhere it needs to and I use the right amount of grease in the compressor… A question would be how thick the grease is and how hard is would be for the stuff to circulate around the compressor from applying the grease into the crankcase.
There’s also the question of which high temp grease to get, like huskey tough stuff or Powerup Thixo grease
Use this type of lubricant might eliminate the need for an oil/air separator?
Should I drain all the old oil out before adding a high temp grease?
Keep in mind that this is a scroll-type, not a piston type
Well, turns out that Scroll type compressors just aren’t worth it. I’ve heard they require lots of lubrication and they generate lots of heat.
I’ll stay with my Viair 400c.
Good luck Repeatman. What type of compressor is your Harrison?
A compressor would have to be designed to use grease or it won’t last very long.
R134A replaced the ozone killing refrigerant R12 and it would evaporate in an air compressor. You can use any cheap synthetic motor oil with most converted A/C type compressors. Oasis Compressors recommend using a full synthetic compressor oil.
what do you guys know about the ac delco R4. like what CFM will it put out. i have one lying around and i have enough room to mount it if i want to. id like to know if it would work as well as a compressor as a york 210.
I own a York 210, and Impressed by how much air It puts out into my tanks on my bicycle Trailer, I started my truck up and got my Harrison a/c Compressor to turn on and it put out a great amount of air so, I’d say it all depends on the kind of car you get it out of and how much RPM you are putting to the Pulley. I abandoned this project because of having to find a tool oiler and all that stuff, so I just left it alone. I’d go with a compressor that is a Piston type, not Scroll type like my Harrison a/c Pump in my truck.
