Does anyone make a 110-150 stand alone pressure switch?
The closest I’ve seen is 110-145 
I already have a 110-150 ViAir switch/relay combo, but I’d like to get a smaller weatherproof switch and wire it to my own relay to help clean things up a bit :rolleyes:
Rick
Air zenith.
Cool
Thanx man 
Silly question, but they are weather proof, right?
Not necessarily true… a 145 PSI switch is, more than likely a 137.75 to 152.25 PSI switch. The industry standard for pressure sensing devices (non-instrument) is 5% of swing in either direction. Pressure switches should be weatherproof, depending on your electrical connections. The weakest link are the connections you make (plumbing / electrical).
Good to know 
I’m not too worried about connections as I use glue lined heatshrink on every connection I make, but it will see weather of all kinds and temps ranging from 120* to -20* :eek:
Air-Zenith says they’re tested to 10,000 cycles, but under what conditions 
10,000 is the industry standard minimum. I believe ours are well beyond that figure. We post our conditions in every catalog we give away. The testing procedures follow the same testing parameters as our compressors.
All VIAIR compressors are tested at 100 PSI, and 70 degrees Fahrenheit ambient temperature.
We have a stand alone pressure switch where the shut off is adjustable between 100 & 200 PSI. The differential is fixed around 30 lb so if the shut off is set to 150 then it turns back on around 120.
How exactly do you adjust it?
Do you just wait for the compressor to stop, check pressure, then rotate in increments until the compressor comes on and stops again or do you have to release the pressure complete before you adjust/refill?
rick
It has a collar around the outside that is held in place by a set screw. Turning the collar clockwise increases the shut off pressure & counterclockwise decreases it. It doesn’t have a solenoid because that’s already built into our compressor.
If you adjust it higher by more than 30 lb the compressor will turn on until it reaches that new setting. If you adjust it lower then you need to let air out until it comes on again. Having a tank gauge installed is the best way to check the pressure.
I think the issue is whether you are turning the regulator up to 12 bar or down to 12 bar. When the pressure is higher in the keg than you are setting the regulator at, you cant get a good reading on the pressure gauge without bleeding some pressure off to get below your target pressure. You basically turned the regulator down too far and it ended at 8 bar.
If you are increasing the pressure from 8 to 12 bar, you should be OK.
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