12v Electrical powered York 210 compressor

I have a f350 with the 7.3 diesel, and can not find room to mount the York. I was wondering if anyone has heard of running the York of of a 1/2 or 2/3 hp 12v electric motor?? Or have any ideas??? Thanks!!

LOL… You wait until the “godfather” hears about this. :smiley:
Sorry … don’t mean to make a fuss about it, but the compressor you seek would be the mighty and one and only Oasis XD3000 or XD4000. The top gun in compressors, so be prepared to bleed some dollars.

I know of the oasis and others, but I take pride in building my own contraptions instead of going with the standard fix. I’m pretty sure it can be done, I’m just wondering if any one else has done something similar Ito same myself some trial time!

a while ago I read a thread about electric motors for yorks. Not oasis motors but cheaper ones that would bolt on. I cant seem to locate that thread anymore.

I think I remember Dan saying that there motors were “basically” winch motors. That being said you could probably locate a working winch motor and fabricate a bracket that would allow you to mount the winch motor to the york. Then you would have to figure out how to get the motor to turn the york.

If you have a tool box in the back of the truck, and have room in it, you could also just use a electric motor with a v-belt pulley and drive the york that way. you would have to get the right pulley ratio tho and find a 12v motor that has a pulley on it.

Dan will eventually jump in and tell you more.

Yea I have room in tool box, and my idea was to put a v belt from York to 12v motor. I am wondering what size moter I shold use and what rpm??? Thanks for hepl

Have you come across this yet? A bit more info on the idea mentioned above with the winch motor. Also shows how the Oasis is rigged up.

Not a clue on what motors would work… Im not an electrician. There is an rpm limit on the York’s but i dont know what it is.

ooo good stuff DBO. I have just so happen to have a york 210 laying around. might as well put it to good use :smiley:

No surprise, but I see our friend from Oasis seems to have made a guest appearance on the thread as well :wink:

There’s also a couple of side-links which are interesting reading as well. About half way down there’s another link off to a bloke (on pirate4x4) who used a starter motor and chain drive setup which seems to work pretty well for him.

Now we use a 2.2 HP golf cart motor because it has continuous duty and enough torque to keep spinning around 1500 to 1800 RPM, even at 200 PSI. A York 210 will deliver 8 CFM at that speed.

I think the York can run continously without damaging crankshaft bearings from a lack of lubrication at 2000 RPM or slightly higher. Higher speeds will limit its run time. At speeds around 2800 RPM damage can occur in less than 5 minutes.

If the pump is directly coupled to the motor, their alignment is critical. We tried many Lovejoy couplers, starting and stopping every 2 minutes, and every one failed in less than 24 hours. A belt would have to be made of very strong material. Even a metal chain needs to be heavy duty!!!

The standard York 210 will discharge about 1 ounce of oil every hour of run time. The optimal oil level in the crankcase is 10 ounces and it’s best to keep the level above 8 ounces because crankshaft damage can occur at 6 ounces.

man! I know exactly what that motor feels like turning the York at 120 psi myself! lol

Actually, there is a way to put that York in your engine bay.
Seen only 1 person do it so far.
I have a 97 F350 with 7.3 diesel.
And have been trying to fond someone to do the work for me, and haven’t had much luck.
The fact I have an intercooler, makes it a bit more difficult, but not impossible. here is what needs to be done:

  1. Relocate passenger side battery (somewhere on the frame rail, out of the engine bay).

  2. Relocate wiper fluid tank (probably easier after everything else is done, so you know where your open spots are at.)

  3. In the case you have an inter-cooler, that will need to be re-routed to go out where the wiper fluid tank and passenger battery were originally located, and under where the York will sit. Thankfully, the intake of the inter-cooler is down quite a ways, so there is room for the York to fit above it, and still clear the hood.

  4. Fab up a braket similar to the one BroncoAir makes for gas engines. It will need to be mounted off the current AC compressor (assuming you have AC on your truck). Go to BromcoAir.com, and check out theonboard air solution they have for a gas engine. A similar bracket will need to be fabbed up, to mount the new York unit.

  5. Also from BroncoAir, you will need to get a custom pulley made to replace the current AC pulley. The one they sell is a replacement for the power steering unit to drive the York. In the case of the 7.3 diesel, it will need to be a driven by the AC unit.

  6. Determine the length of v-belt necessary to drive the York unit. This depends on what solution is come up with, as far as the bracket to mount the York.

It can be done.
Requires a bit of work.
And if someone has enough motivation to come up with a turn-key solution, they could sell the parts like hot cakes! Wish I could weld, I would do it. Good luck if you get it all together. Would love to see how it turns out. Maybe as more people get it done, it will spur on more to do it. Eventually, someone will cash in and sell the kit for us “weekend wrenchers”.

The easiest turnkey solution is buy an Oasis…lol

But I don’t have a grand or more to throw at a compressor.
Even if I did, I am not sure I would go that route.
The CFM on a York is around 8 or 9 if I remember right.
Is your Oasis that high? Never have looked.

The Oasis is a York

well ok then.
Its obvious I know nothing about what I am talking about.

I do know I can get a York 210 that is brand new for around $150.
And an install kit for around $300.
With no drain on my batteries - its belt driven.

That seems like a better option than $1,500 for an electrical setup.
Not saying the product isn’t any good, just comparing the setup & money considerations.

Guess its just personal preference.

The York you’ll get is designed for air conditioning with just a compression ring. It will discharge 1 ounce of oil every hour of run time even using every method to reduce it. You’ll also have to check the oil level frequently with a dipstick.

Our Yorks ($650) have a finned head for cooling and an oil control ring that reduces the oil discharge to 1 ounce every 50 hours. They also have an oil level sight glass.

ok, well another option would be to use your York design compressor, and mount it as a belt drive system.
Do you sell just your compressor?

Yes, That’s why I posted a price next to it.

There are 2 issues with ours. The sight glass is on the opposite side of the crankshaft which means in most cases it will face the engine making it difficult to see. The other is access to the crankcase for checking and adding oil. That access is on the suction side because it has a screw, the other side is plugged.

If I can get the guy who is doing my bed bars (roll bars), talked into helping me get the necessary modifications done to belt drive the compressor, then I will certainly be all over that.
Why spend $400 + on electrical compressors that wont last as long or generate as much CFM as yours? Believe me, i am anxious to get this installed!