Air compressor

Main Train Horns
21

Well that blows…

22

I have a KL5H system that is primarily supplied but I do run a few air tools from time to time. I was never impressed by the time it takes twin air zeniths to fill a 5 gallon tank, actually disappointing. They are real nice looking compressors but for me they fall in the category of " all show No go " especially that they need a 2nd rebuild again at the 1 year mark! I have three 5 gallon tanks on board. The Oasis sure do " Gulp " some power.:eek:

Dan,

Thanks for the info and I’m sure I will be in contact with you for this upgrade.

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The circuit protection for my OTT Custom Oasis Compressor System uses 200A circuit protection.

The Blue Seas 187 Series Circuit Breaker is available in 150A or 200A (plus lower amperage parts) and I didn’t want nuisance trips, so I designed a system that could provide 200A continuously.

My system has five Group 31 125Ah batteries for the bank powering the compressor, w/ two engines each having 90A chargers and a 60A AC-powered charger, powered either by shore power or by the 7kW on-board generator.

24

Huh, your talking about mini power stations! Surely a belt driven compressor has to be the easier option?:confused::confused::wink:

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This is my home / garage / utility / air horn compressor. I don’t want to have to run my gasoline Magnum 454 engine(s) just to make air. I just run a long hose from my boat to my driveway when I’m working on the car.

My brother-in-law lives in Italy. The utility service to his house is 4kW and my boat generator is 7kW. My generator can run both air conditioners, the microwave, cook top, refrigerator and televisions at the same time.

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Ahhhh I see, I am totally with you now.
That’s gotta be a handy piece of kit to have in your garage?:cool::cool::cool:

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Actually, it is on my boat, at the dock next to my house.

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A severe case of awesomeness!:smiley:

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Go with an engine driven system. Extreme Outback is where I got mine from, and it works like a champ.

The only issue I’ve had with it is the power steering lines; I swapped mine out for custom made ones that will out live the truck.

-Kris

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Dan,
I’ve decided to purchase the XD4000. I’ve looked around but cannot find any more specifics other than a few close ups of the compressor.
I have a couple questions

  1. Does it require special air line metal leads, the OB2 compressors I have had 3/8 check valve with a 16" metal 1/2 lead due to the heat. Does this compressor come with a check valve? How about the lead? If not, can you recommend one, is it 1/2" NPT?
  2. Does this require a lot of air flow to keep it cool? I plan on mounting it in the back of my cab covered pickup bed.
  3. Anything extra (outside of the appropriate gauge wire) that I will need regarding the wiring? You say it has a relay. I want to have a main override switch in the cab to shut the compressor on/off . Obviously the pressure switch controls when the compressor runs.

Thanks

31

This reply in my OTT Custom Oasis Compressor System shows the braided Viair 3/8" stainless leader hose and the Load Genie unloading check valve.

Mine sees extended periods of continuous usage. The ~150A @12V makes LOTS of heat.

My custom system has excessive fresh air cooling, so I can grab onto and hold the head during steady-state usage. My impression is that the standard XD4000 does not run as cool as mine.

If the planned usage is short bursts, to fill a tire, for example, then the planned mounting will be fine. If the planned usage is continuous operation, then it will need fresh air to remain cool.

Mount it so the motor fan and the head fan will have unrestricted flow.

Mount it so the oil sight glass is visible.

My strong suggestion is to provide circuit protection near the battery. This is a 180A to 200A circuit and either a fuse or a circuit breaker should be placed near the battery to protect the wiring.

An interior compressor enable / disable switch is very handy.

The compressor has two indicator lamps, one for enable and one for low battery. On my system I designed custom circuitry to duplicate those indicators onto my dash switch.

A pressure shutoff switch is required. I like the adjustable Nason switch on my system.

Don’t forget a pressure relief valve, in-case the system loses control and attempts to over-pressure the plumbing.

32

Thanks Wingless for taking the time, I will re-read your comments and follow your advise

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I’m not sure if it makes any difference but Hornblasters includes “our” 3 foot, 3/8" NPT stainless steel braided hose, not Viair’s. Viair compressors require a check valve, ours don’t but we recommend it.

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I am working on two installs, one on my work truck (I am using the OB2’s I bought),my around town truck I plan to use the Oasis.

BTW - what is the best way to connect two pieces of say 6 awg wire? The OB2 compressors have a short 8" pigtail, and I am using 6 awg wire to run to the battery. I could use the fuse, but that would put it right next to the compressors instead of close to the battery?

Do they make a connector for large gauge wire? Does it make a difference to have it close to the battery as opposed to closer to the compressor?

Type of fuse housing, I could use to connect the two wires:

The OB2 installation shows:

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There are lots of variants on this Power Post to permit joining and distributing high current / large gauge wire.

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Bill,

You should fuse close to the battery. You are protecting the wire in case there is a short.

I would run a single 4ga wire from the battery to the compressor location, fused near the battery. Fuse size is based on wire capacity.

Then use a fused distribution block near the compressors for the 6ga. Any time you reduce wire size, you should fuse accordingly.

You can probably use 100a for the 4ga and 40a for each 6ga.

Other option is to make 2 separate runs and fuse near the battery. Home depot has some huge butt connectors for the splice near the compressor.

37

OK thank you! I will take a look at those BUTT connectors at HD