Well, picked this beast up last week and plan on putting on my K3, probably going to do seperate mounts along the frame, thinking of mounting an oasis in the toolbox with its own battery. Gunna try to squeeze a 20 gallon tank on here somewhere!!!
Wow… that’s HUGE. Congrats on a great looking truck, love the dark paintwork.
My luck is going the opposite way with new car purchases. Ordered a new C-Class Merc last September and have had nothing but dramas since - I was supposed to get it at the start of January and they’ve been stalling until now. Found out on Friday that the dealer had been hiding the fact it had been damaged in transit and is awaiting parts, so I just tore up the contract on it. Time to start again. 
Thanks! I love the black, it’s the first black vehicle I’ve ever owned, gets dirty QUICK!!
Sounds like you need to find a new dealer. I hate the BS games some dealers play… I visited countless dealers and it’s always the same sob story about something… Hope you have good luck with your new search!!!
Side note… Dunno why this posted here, I thought I posted in the new ride section lol
Nice ride and good plan, good luck.
When I designed my custom Oasis compressed air system, one important component was compressor cooling.
The solution I implemented as to design and fabricate a custom shroud to force 220 CFM over the cylinder head. The result is the compressor remains cool, even w/ extended usage.
When designing your system, ensure that the compressor oil sight glass may be observed for maintaining the oil level.
Just read your install thread, wow. GREAT JOB!!! I have thought of compressor cooling issues and was looking at different 8" automotive fans. I like your ducted blower MUCH better though. I think I can make that work in a toolbox setup!!!
Thank you!
My shroud was designed to force the entire air volume over the cylinder head fins. The result is the compressor is 55°C to 75°C when operated in a 27°C ambient environment, w/ the hottest spot near the air exhaust port. This is PLENTY cool.
The “issue” is when the compressor / fan turns off and the thermal mass soaks the parts and the temperature rises.
My setup has a decent volume for the compressor, about a 3’ cube, so the shut-down thermal soak / temperature rise is not an issue.
My fall-back was to run the cooling fan off a thermostat instead of the motor terminals, but I don’t think that is required for my application.
Don’t forget to permit access to the oil fill too. On mine I use a disposable syringe to squirt oil into the side fill port while observing the oil level inspection port, when required.
Ah, didn’t think of after the compressor shuts down… I’m wondering if you could use some kind of timed relay that would leave the fan running for a preset amount of time after shutdown… Hmm…
Sure, either an off-delay timer, or a snap-action thermostat. IMO, neither is required.
My setup already has mega cooling, as-compared to a standard compressor, so the heat rise at stop is not an issue.
But, if no heat rise is desired, then either option will maintain the low temperature.
A delay timer can be set long enough to cool for the most extreme condition because fans need very little power and shouldn’t drain your battery. The thermostat or thermocouple would need to be located on the compressor where it can’t be fooled by other factors or be set so its shutoff temperature is low enough to insure sufficient cooling.
What is the fan on/off functionality of the 100 cfm fan in the XD4000 compressor? The blower in my custom system is currently wired to run while the motor runs.
The 220 cfm blower used on my custom air system draws 5.5A and that additional load is no problem for my battery bank.
What is the fan on/off functionality of the 100 cfm fan in the XD4000 compressor? The blower in my custom system is currently wired to run while the motor runs.
The 220 cfm blower used on my custom air system draws 5.5A and that additional load is no problem for my battery bank.
The 150 CFM fan is connected to the solenoid’s small terminals so it gets power at the same time as the solenoid.
So the fans shut down when the compressor shuts down? In a toolbox i would still need some way to vent fresh air into the toolbox correct? That way the fan isn’t circulating the hot air?
Yes you would need some sort of intake and exhaust louvers in the box, unless it has enough leakage around the lid to allow sufficient air in.
When I designed my custom Oasis XD3000 compressor system I wanted to provide superior cooling than provided by the Oasis XD4000 compressor.
On mine, the shroud is designed to ensure 100% of the blower air is used to cool the compressor. This is attained by closing the pressurized side of the shroud just short of the inlet and outlet ports on the cylinder head. Also, my fan moves much more air than the XD4000.
When the compressor and fan are running there is a strong airflow coming out the front of the compressor.
My steady-state thermocouple measurements show that the warmest location is the cylinder head nearest the exhaust port, as I expected. The body of the compressor gets warm, but does not require extra airflow.
The best option for compressor cooling is to force air past the compressor cylinder head fins.
My suggestion for the toolbox is to also get the XD3000 and to also make an air baffle like mine, so the forced cooling air pressure differential exists across the cylinder head fins. I would put a high volume fan on the motor side of the toolbox and a baffle in the toolbox so 100% of the air HAS to be forced over the cylinder head fins.
My other suggestions are to put the oil inspection port to be very visible, like poking out the toolbox and to make the oil fill port(s)accessible from outside the toolbox.
Also, be aware of galvanic corrosion that exists when dissimilar metals are in direct contact.
The Oasis side plates are powder-coated steel. It is reasonably protected and not a concern for me.
The York pump is painted cast aluminum. If a shroud or baffle is constructed, either do not touch the pump, or make it out of aluminum.
Do not touch the pump w/ steel or w/ stainless steel to prevent galvanic corrosion at those points.
Thanks for all the info!