Anyone put a lighter spring in a manual valve?

Greetings. I’ve been lurking around here a bit while I work on my install.

I have a Hornblaster’s manual valve. It is mounted in my tool box and I am
operating it remotely from the cab with a cable I made.

If you’re familiar with the valve you know it is very stiff.
On my initial test I couldn’t get full throw, about 1/2" shy.
The clamp I had made for the cab pulled out, easy enough to beef up.

I thought if I could reduce the pressure required that would simplify the deal.
I suspect the strength of the spring I’m pulling against controls the valve
closing and sealing so I’m not getting my hopes up too much.

Has anyone changed the spring in the valve? I haven’t opened it up so
I really don’t know if what I’m asking is even an option.

I appreciate any help. I intend to post some pics of the install when I’m done.

Welcome to the forum The valve will need the spring pressure to provide a reliable seal against the seat. You’ll be able to drop seat pressure if you also reduce the line air pressure I suppose. The only spring free alternative would be something like a ball valve.

The other thing you could look at doing is to replace the handle with a longer bar so you have more leverage against the valve…

Thanks DBO. 10-4 on the leverage. I had thought of a longer handle prior to even getting it installed because I suspected this might be a problem once I got the valve and felt how stiff it was.

Not much room for a longer handle so I’m going to take a different approach.
It appears that with a couple of small pulley’s, I can drop the force needed by 2/3rds. That should be plenty. It will increase the distance I need to pull the cable but that shouldn’t be a problem. Stay tuned. :smiley:

I was thinking multiple pullies myself - block & tackle. If you did 1 loop, it would double your force. You could do a couple loops and really reduce it. The lever doesn’t move very far anyway, so multiplying your input distance isn’t terrible…

I couldn’t stand it so I had to take a little break from work and run an errand. :smiley:

Picked up the pulley’s and some nylon coated cable to replace the straight stainless one I have now. The nylon should help reduce the friction, think I had more of that than I anticipated. Hopefully I’ll be able to knock this out tonight. Of course, that’s what I thought last night. :rolleyes:

Welcome to the forum. Could the valve loosen up with use?

Thanks! The handle and the casting aren’t high tolerance parts, plenty of play in them. The spring inside shouldn’t for a long time. I’ve never had a manual valve. I had the horns on my old truck for 7 years, moving them to the new one now. I had a push button on the other truck.

As usual, projects take more beer, err time, than expected. :smiley: I did tap the handle and connect the the pulley with an eyescrew. Got the other pulley mounted to the back wall of the box. Clamp in the cab is fixed. New cable is in. Ran out of light. Maybe tomorrow.

My spring has not loosened up at all and ive had mine for a couple years with plenty of horn time.

I thought about swapping a ball valve in but like the authentic look and feel of the handle.

The pulley’s were the ticket. :smiley:

One leak around the gauge, not bad. Don’t know how long this compressor will last with this tank. Went up to 8.5G from 3.

Will post some install pics soon.

yeeeess pics!

Pretty sure you not only have to overcome the spring, but the air pressure as well.

Install and pics are

here