Battery Monitor

I have my compressor wired directly to my battery, so I will still have the air system available even when the vehicle is off. However, in the event of a hose leak, I don’t want the compressor running and running to the point that it runs down my battery.

Is there any kind of a “black box” I could connect between the compressor and the battery to monitor the battery voltage such that if the battery fell below, say, 10 volts, the compressor would shut off?

Thanks.

Connect the compressor to a toggle switch… So when u turn switch off the compressor wont kick on no matter what…

same thing as scared… go from power to a toggle from toggle to your pressure switch or… main power on comps…

What they said.

That much I knew. :rolleyes:

Yes, I can put in a toggle switch, but I would prefer that it worked automatically.

So back to my original question, does any kind of device such as the one I described exist?

yes but half the time they do not work properly and drain your battery themselves.

actually there is something that someone just invented not to long ago… it installs on ur battery and when it reaches a certain volt meter from drainage it disconnects the battery…
its for people who leave their lights on and poop… u could try that…

i would just rather go with a toggle switch

i used a kit that wires the compessor to the ignition and it makes it so only the compressor can turn on only when the ignition is on

ive used those setups but, a buddy had a battery surge…somehow and it fried his subs and compressor and ignition switch

I used to have mine hooked to a square red push button switch from radio shack only prob with it you couldn’t tell if it was energized when the compressor shut off.actually killed a yellow top one night when the pumps drained the battery.since then I got illuminated toggle switch that light up and know by how sits that it’s off.now no more battery drains. :smiley:

use 2 batteries with an isolator between them. 1 battery is for your vehicle and the other (isolated) will charge when the vehilce is running but wont drain the primary battery.

i’ve heard of using that system…^^^as stated above…but dont u need to upgrade your alternator if you are going to do this…and what would you recomend for me with DUAL OASIS compressors. i have an optima battery and it runs my duals just fine. any recomendations

Here’s a link that will help all of you with battery isolators -
http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm

Is your Optima a blue top? We’ve heard from quite a few customers who had a yellow or red top go bad in about 2 months with our compressor. We don’t have an explaination for it either since Optima has a very good reputation.

We do know that Odyssey makes batteries that blow the doors off of other brands and we recommend them. We deep cycle their PC535 a lot more than 400 times (Odyssey’s rating) before it goes bad. Their PC2150 (group 31/100 amp hour) can run an HP3000 for about 9 minutes without the engine running.

One HP3000 draws about 180 amps which should help you determine if you need to upgrade your alternator.

That is the major reason I recommend the XD3000 because it draws 160 amps, has 100% duty cycle @ 100 PSI, and delivers 8 CFM all the way to 200 PSI. The motor brushes are a lot easier to replace too.

a lot of people running huge audio setups will run with powermaster batteries, as well as kinetic batteries… they can get pretty pricey tho

Kinetic is very similar to Odyssey and other similar brands are Trojan & Lifeline. The powermaster is also similar if it’s an AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery. I have a customer who investigated all of those brands.

He liked the Odyssey brand for several reasons but it was the battery’s terminals that made the difference for him.

All of the AGM batteries I’ve seen are pricey!

What are some prices for the odyssey batteries ???

I have 4 red top batteries…that i acquired from my motor pool…extra parts :wink:

Keep using the Optimas as long as they’re free or cheap!

We sell their PC1200 (group 24/44 amp hour) for $230, their PC1700 (group 27/68 amp hour) for $360, and their PC2150 (group 31/100 amp hour) for $399. The model numbers are the cranking amps. Their cold cranking amps are about half.

This website will give you all of their models, specs, and dealers, so check it out and see if you can find a dealer close to you. - www.odysseyfactory.com

Thanks for the info

Wow, this is good stuff to know…thanks, not much is for free nowadays, even advise…