Belt Drive compressors

Do they make a kit out there for vehicles to run a direct line compressor. I guess kinda like the Yorks I see some of yall have build, or a AC compressor. I was wondering if they made a kit that has everything you need in it. I have a 2011 silverado.

I do not know of someone who makes complete kits for GM vehicles … and there are very, very few bracket kits, available for GM vehicles, as well. Specifically, to my knowledge, the only bracket kits for Chevy/GMC vehicles are made by Kilby Enterprises for 1987-1996 Chevy small blocks [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]without AC and for 1988-1996 Pre-Vortec Chevy small blocks.[/FONT]

Sadly, the bracket you’d need to mount the compressor to the engine is the hard part – i.e. it’s the only thing you’d really need/want from a kit, as you can easily do everything else, yourself.

I suspect there are not kits for late 90’s GM trucks (and later) for two reasons: 1) low demand and 2) lack of readily-usable space (without making any modifications to create some for the York) under the hood. York 210’s (which have the highest CFM output of the Yorks) are massive.


P.S. One of these days I need to get around to posting photos of my setup. Frankly, I need new pics because it’s changed a good bit since I took the original install photos … and that means cleaning out the engine bay before I take shots – which means spring/summer, since it’s too cold for that, right now. This is, of course, why I keep procrastinating it – too many things to do for just a few photos. :frowning:

Have you tried Kilby Enterprises?

Dan just got busted skimming. :slight_smile:

Kilby sold his company a few years back so it might be whatever stock is on-hand.

I know Extreme Outback makes them as I have one in my truck. It’s a modified Sanden SD-209 unit and has been great for the past 3 or so years.

Make sure you research the kit before you buy it. The install instructions require bending the metal portion of the power steering lines where they connect to the pump on my truck, and I didn’t like that idea. I ended up replacing them through a hydraulic shop and they’re rated for well over 8000 PSI so there’s a good chance they’ll outlive the truck.

I believe the gentleman I spoke with was George; he was very helpful with the kit and a replacement belt and idler that I needed a few months ago.


I recall reading their lit and it only mentioned bracket kits for the Duramax line of GM vehicles. Do they actually have kits and instructions for GM gassers?


They should, I’ve seen it installed on a Corvette engine for a custom suspension and they offered it for all three trucks whether they were gas or diesel.

Call George and talk to him … really knowledgeable guy and should be able to answer your questions.


I have a York in place already, so no need. It was just curiosity on my part given I had looked into this in the past and their lit made no mention of support for anything except diesel varieties of American truck brands. :slight_smile:

Hopefully by inquiring (and you answering), the original poster of this thread has learned something useful regarding his quest for a kit. :slight_smile:

All GMT900, 920, 930, and 940’s (Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade, Yukon, Sierra, Avalanche) share many similarities which include the LS engine (truck series) and the huge space under the hood between the engine and the fuse box which is perfect for an EDC.

I have an EDC on my Tahoe. As long as you have a 2007-2013 GM truck or suv with a 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, or a 6.2 it will fit. Now my bracket essentially bolts on the alternator bracket. I thought about redesigning the entire alternator bracket so it could have mounting points for a York EDC and be run off the serpentine. Although that’s the proper way of doing it, it looked like more work than I wanted to get into, plus I don’t even think I could sell the new design to a company to market it.

I have the bracket made in autocad. It’s made to run the EDC off a V-belt and a combo alternator pulley. It also has a oval cut out for a tensioner pulley. Now this goes without saying that there is welding required, possibly some cutting, and that there are more pieces needed to make this work.

Functionally it works as needed, but I have to keep the revs below 4k. My old bracket had a problem of throwing belts and eating them for breakfast. That was because things didn’t line up 100% and that there’s some tricky combo with groove diameters and such. Thats kinda what you get doing something like this, and why I though about redesigning the alternator bracket to eliminate that problem. Haven’t had a problem with belt throwing yet with my new bracket though.