SO this is what it looked like before I cut into the spare wheel well.
This is the airline and manual valve in the car, purely visible to walker-s by
And here are the mounted horns thus far. There is a hole in the floor of the car which is wide enough to let the 3 main largest horns face out the bottom but without being seen
So its up. This month the plan is to run the airline under the car and relocate the valve to the floor to the left of the brakes.
Nice install thats a lot of horn in a little car.
cool install,but you couldve saved ur trunk by using mounting brackets just for nathanairchime horns. got a 03 civic with a k5 and a k3 funny stuff lol
little car, alotta honk 
I did look for mounting brackets, I saw some around here for $250 IIRC but I wasn;t about to shell out that kind og money. Can I see pics of what you did with your brackets?
As for the trunk, no problem. I just popped a hole as I was getting impatient and just wanted to git er done.
I spent a few bucks on a blade for the sawzall and it took 5 minutes. Its a 12 year old car which will have 100K on it by the end of next week. And I will prob but a new car in a few years anyway so I figured why not.
But please let me see how you did it with brackets. Where did you get brackets and how did you apply them? Need ideas for when these go on the newer wheels 
I’ve seen the kits. They look fairly complete, but $250? C’mon!
Paying FULL retail through Mcmaster Carr you can buy all the parts for $128.
That’s everything except brackets and bolts.
Since “they” make the manifold and buy quantites of the parts, it’s WAY less.
The brackets - I can’t begin to tell you how cheap carbon steel flatbar is. We’re talking less than $1 per bracket. So it’s all labor. Powdercoating is pretty cheap for big runs too - maybe $5 per bracket.
I am soooo gonna make my own brackets!
If I had the weldable steel, I could probably make some crude brackets… I’m dying to use my welder…
I just don’t feel like driving that far to get it…
I even thought about getting a powder coat station for the house… doing everything myself… but my wife would whip my butt…
Buy it online. You don’t even have to get up…lol
Dude, if you’re making your own, hook me up.
So a question re wiring:
See the three wires coming off hte pressure switch, running to their respective connectors? Those connectors are …burning up. The plastic looks like its melting. Advice?
The connectors are points of resistance. You could try cutting them out and soldering the wires directly. Use heatshrink and/or tape them up good. BTW - how big is your fuse?
About the brackets… It’s always worth it for me to make my own. It would take a lot of effort and initial cost to put together a kit for less than their price, but it can be done. Send me a PM…
The fuse…going by memory, the fuse on the wire between the battery and the compressor is a red 30.
Using the connectors supplied from the 540 Kit but they have virtually melted. Then used wirecaps in the interim but that is not looking good.
Sodering not an option yet. Any mid stream options until we can soder?
A wire nut is a pretty good connection. The wires are directly connected to each other. Soldering is just more permanent. So if it’s still hot, it must be something else. Aother thing to check - a bad or marginal ground can cause the motor to draw more current. Make sure the compressor ground is good and clean.
OK, I have having some serious issues and I want to review my wiring from the basics:
So I have the 540 onboard air system.
2.This connects, by wirecap, to the thickest wire that runs the length of the Altima to the trunk and connects to the red wire on the pressure switch.
The problem is that these wires are getting VERY hot. To the point I see wisps of smoke.
I rechecked my compressor ground as suggested, even scraped the paint off the metal to ensure good contact. No change.
Did I reverse how I should have placed the wires to begin with?
So I unhooked and re-checked all my connections.
From the (+) battery terminal, I have the short 6 inch or so wire with the inlaid fuse(which is actually a 35 fuse) to a
—>wire nut connection connecting to the thickest wire that came w/ the 540. This runs the length of the Altima, to the red wire coming from the pressure switch.
This thick wire and red wire is the one that gets really hot. I tried it today with a new wire nut connector after checking the ground off the compressoe. And those wires got VERY hot within 25 secs, to the point I saw a small bit of smoke coming from the connector. I didnt even allow my tank to fill and disconnected it.
I happened to have some family over and he casually remarked that its likely to be the pressure switch that is causing the issues as the compressor didnt get hot but he felt the pressure switch was.
He stated that they tend to “go” fast. I really dont value his opinion greatly and defer to advice here.
Is it possible that a pressure switch that has only been in use for 3 months could be defective?
Or Did I do something wrong?! Please help, totally bummed.
A cable run the length of an Altima is long. I think it should be around 4 gauge unless you have an Oasis which would need 0/1 gauge.
I would tend to disagree with that. There are plenty of wiring charts online for amps -vs- length -vs- wire gauge. There are uber-conservative charts and also the opposite. I use the one from Knukoncetpz which seems middle of the road. http://www.knukonceptz.com/assets/pdf/PowerWireSpec.pdf
A 20ft run with a 35amp fuse should probably be 8ga wire. If the wire is closer to 15ft he could get away with 10ga wire.
I forget what compressor and what wire comes in the 540 kit…
Thanks for the link!
Before I saw Ear2Ear’s comments, I was checkin on my wiring. I believe I am using the full 20 foot of 10gauge wire.
Kit includes per the website:
400C Air Compressor
300 PSI US Made Air Tank
110/150 PSI Weatherproof Pressure Switch
1/2in Push-to-Pull Air Line Fitting
Safety Blow-Off
Drain Cock
20ft 10ga Wire
20ft 18ga Wire
Inline Fuse Holder
Terminal Kit
Detailed Instructions
So the collective judgement here is that if I go to 8 gauge, problem is solved?
Well, if anything, a 35amp fuse is too big for a full 20ft of 10ga.
You can burn the wire up before the fuse pops (as you noticed)…
So IMO it should be done regardless.
Try and check your voltage while the compressor is running.
Low voltage contributes to high amp draw.
So I didn’t realize that I forgot to update you gentlemen. Since my last post, the wife got rear-ended in the Altima. Like a trooper, her first call was to me and the first words out of her mouth were what about the horns.
Needless to say the wiring n the fuses took a back seat to getting the auto fixed.
And so I took out the horn. Been hornl-ess all summer and last night I started getting the itch again. So now I’m starting fresh and going to attempt an install in our Honda 2010 pilot.