Some have requested the difference between the Graham White 353 Series and the Hornblasters brand Manual Valve and why the huge difference in price.
Ready…
The Graham White is made in the U.S.A…The Hornblasters, Inc. brand is imported over seas.
Tada!
Both valves are 1/2" NPT connections. Both are similar in dimensions and weight. The only other difference is the handle directions are opposite.
Here are some pictures.
GW on Right, HB on Left.
This is great info. Here’s some other bits which may interest people:
The Graham White valve can be found in various guises.
The GW 353-200
The GW-200 is an old design (no longer manufactured) which used a different valve body to what is seen today in the 100 series. The casing is larger because it had both ports facing downwards. A common misconception is that there is more air flow with the 200 valve series. The valve assembly has actually remained the same through both the 200 and 100 series so there is no difference in air flow.
The GW 353-100
This is the current design for the valve, with air ports being in-line to the valve handle. You can get modulating and non-modulating variants for the 353. Metered variants are distinguishable by a groove identification on the tip of the valve stem.
[ul]
[li]No Groove 1/8" Metered (24 cfm @140 PSI)[/li][li]1 Groove 1/16" Metered (12 cfm @140 PSI)[/li][li]2 Grooves 3/16" Metered (30 cfm @140 PSI)[/li][li]3 Grooves - Non Metered[/li][/ul]
All of the valves will flow 70 cfm @140 PSI in the fully open position.
So where are the real performance differences between the clone and the GW?
It looks like you could take the 4 bolts out and rotate the handle in 90 degree increments. Is that ok?
I have a GW and don’t see any grooves. Are they obvious? Does anybody have a pic?
I’m pretty sure you can on the GW. Don’t know about the other one.
Should be pretty obvious. Right on the top of the valve stem. See attached. My GW is a 1/8th metered, so I’m not groovie either. :rolleyes:
Thanks for the info, ive been wondering what the differences were.
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Thanks for the pic - that is pretty obvious. Mine is definitely grooveless.
Both valves come with a one year warranty.
I am in the process of researching flow rates and metering variants but I am having very little luck.
We have never tried or heard of anybody who tried to interchange the parts so this I am not sure of.
We have taken both valves apart and it does look as though you can take the 4 bolts out, rotate the handle and still work properly.
I will confirn you can remove the bolts and turn the handle. IO did that on my old truck when i wanted the handle pointed toward me instead…
I’d be curious to see if you can hear a difference with both handles hooked up to a k3 or k5 at same time… Ive always wondered if my clone GW was restrictive and didnt allow the k3 to sing in its full glory.
Hey guys, Just been looking at the pics of these two valves and I notice quite a few differences between the HB clone valve and the GW valve and 2 of them involve flow rate.
These are just some of the differences that I noticed just from looking at a few pictures. I’m sure that the HB clone valve will work for people and they will use it without any problems and they would never notice any difference even in flow rate, but until you have both of them in hand and also do a comparison on a real horn with a flow meter, then I believe you will notice.
I’m taking a guess that the internal parts in both of these valves would not be interchangeable also.
The pics are not what I’d consider a good guide if wanting to make minute comparisons on flow rate. Valve stem has nothing to do with the flow. Both valves have 1/2" NPT fittings and the inside architecture of the valve was undoubtedly copied from the Graham White.
Would you have a quality difference? Yes, absolutely
Would there be any difference in flow rate that you could pick up with your ears by listening to a bellowing train horn? Absolutely not!
If quality and reliability is your main concern, then spend the extra coin on a genuine GW, but if all you’re worried about is the possibility of losing out on volume due to flow rate, you’re barking up the wrong tree.
Why does it not surprise me that the Chinese have come out with an “honorable train horn valve product”? They already make an “honorable 5-chime step-top steam whistle product”. Not to mention copies of about everything except Nathan horns. Current Leslie horns are made in India. But there are rumors that soon the Leslie castings will go to China, then you can purchase your own “honorable S5T locomotive horn product”.
I’ll stick with my old skool valves, Viloco, Nathan & Leslie. They’ve done me well in the past.
Do you still stand by this???
What’s the problem?
The fact that I’m gonna buy a black widow valve (rather than a GW) for an evil set of leslie horns (didn’t like the ball valve I’d started using) and if you were/are wrong and the valve is restrictive then it means I gotta come a long way to hunt you down after lol.
If you’re having to save a hundred bucks on a clone valve it sounds like you won’t have enough money to come after me :D.
After all that effort, money and time you’ve invested building that mad hatchback of yours, don’t skimp on the last bit dude - buy the genuine GW. I still don’t believe it’ll make the horns louder or quieter, but I bet it’ll outlive the Chinese version by a mile.
DBO,
Man, I dunno. I’ve been running the clone for at least 4 or 5 years now and the only issue I’ve had is it sticking open when below freezing. Once it got warmed up, no problem.
-Kris
That’s good going. Can’t argue with that kind of review 
Don’t know if there’s anyone on here who has owned both variants. My main concern with the cheaper version was spare parts, but then again if it fails only after 5+ years, you can just buy another new one and still come out on top.
Not like we’re in the railroad industry where there’s a reliance on quality and safety.