Stop adding extra compressors and a bunch of tanks or larger ones when your space is limited.
Get an XD3000 with any tank size and blow your horns as often as you like. Now you have room for those extra horns!
lol sales that bad?
somehow a xd3000 on a 2 gallon tank seems a bit silly.
Acually sales are great. It’s like someone threw a light switch on January 1st.
I decided to start this thread after seeing some of you guys expressing concerns about having enough space to mount everything.
An XD3000 and 2 gallon tank may seem silly but the compessor only takes 5 seconds to top it off.
How is an XD3000 on power? Such as amps to run? Will you need a large power supply? Just curious.
The 12V model typically draws 150 to 160 amps with a peak of 180. The 24V model draws 80 to 90 amps. The overall current draw from any 12V or 24V compressor is the same, ours just does it faster.
A group 31, 100 AH, deep cycle Odyssey battery can run the compressor for 10 minutes, even without a charge behind it.
Dan,
I’m converting my '08 Dodge Ram 3500 to Group 31 batteries because I hate the stock units. It’s not that they don’t do a good job, but I want an industrial battery because this is my tow rig for my Class IV toyhauler and I need to make sure my electrical system will be up for the added stress I know will be put on it for the compressor and charging a third battery on the RV.
Plus, I’ve got an extra $900 from an old employer that got caught up in a class action lawsuit because they underpaid me and needed a way to spend it on my truck.
Tag, you’re it.
Man that’s a lot of current to be drawing at one time…
I would assume nothing less than 1/0 cable? Welding cable would be great in this application. It’s a lot cheaper and you don’t need the high dollar / fine stranded audio cable.
Just thinking that 4ga sure would be borderline especially over 10 feet.
Don’t forget an isolater for the extra battery if you ever want to run it with the engine off.
Well its a diesel and IIRC it came standard with a 165 amp alternator, so power isn’t a problem. I’ve had cracked batteries in the past from the 1 ton suspension in my '03 3500 and would rather put batteries in the truck that are made for a truck. You know what I mean?
And yeah I was thinking nothing less than welding cable grade 1/0 for the run to the compressor. I’m ordering 4/0 for a set of homemade jumper cables, so I can order the 1/0 while I’m at it. I might even get a wild hair and just go with 2/0 to be safe.
lol…4/0 jumper cables
Do you know how heavy they’re going to be?
1/0 is good for around 300 amps
I like your style though…Too much = Just enough
I used to have a set of 4/0 jumpers. I built a set for my parent’s industrial diesel brokerage company after needing a set and nothing out there (at that time) was able to handle 12VDC with over 2000 cold cranking amps. A regular set of jumpers trying to jump a diesel was funny; you could watch the cables flex from the amount of power running through them and they’ve get hot before you were done.
Obviously they are heavy, but if you get the superflex welding cable you can wrap them up pretty well for their size and weight. The nice part is there is no waiting when you use them due to the quality of copper and type of cable it is. Clip them on, jump the other vehicle, unhook them and it’s all good … no more waiting and all that trash.
That is some serious power. They make clamps rated for that?
Yeah the heavy duty parrot clamps that I refer to as “Jaws”. Had one get ahold of my hand once, oh how freely the swear words flowed on that day …
10 feet of #4 welding cable is sufficient for our compressor. It has no problem with the current and only gets slightly warm while the compressor is running.
For runs longer than 10 feet you will want to use larger cable but it is better to run that larger cable to an auxiliary battery mounted as close to the compressor as possible and shorten our cable to that battery.
What about like a 25 foot run?
I am just starting to plan for upgrading my air system on my boat.
I am looking into adding a whistle to my system, which to my understanding requires a lot of air volume.
I will probably add 2 50-60 gallon air tanks.
The batteries are located in the engine room and I would like to keep the compressor mounted in the cabin under the dining seating. I already keep my 60 amp battery charger and 2 stereo amps in there. There is plenty of room to spare, but most importantly, it is clean and away from any salt water.
Maybe build some type of sealed enclosed box and mount it in the engine room?
WHat do you think?
Why not engine driven? What kind of motor(s) does the boat have?
-Kris
The chart I use says 1/0 gauge would work. Just stay away from cheap audio cable and copper clad aluminum.
Good point.
We are on the same page, they are 671ti detroits, and I already have a call into them about adding compressors.
My manuals say the are available to mount on them, right now there is just one pulley that only drives the alternator.
Just trying to figure out all my options before moving forward.
this will probably turn into a winter project.
Then you’ll definitely want an Oasis XD4000, engine driven, or gas powered air compressor.
I am “chiming” in here a bit late(just joined, be gentle with me), but it seems to me that installing a secondary kickdonkey battery within a foot or so of the compressor(short, fat cables), then wire the secondary battery thru an isolator(say 10ga or so)back to the alternator or primary battery for charging would work, wouldnt it? The isolator would have to be rated pretty high tho I would think. Am I wrong?