So hey there guys! I bought myself the Shocker Classic 228VX, I’ve installed everything perfectly, but instead of wiring it to my ignition I’ve gone straight to my battery and put a switch inbetween to turn the compressor on and off…Well I’ve done exactly the same with the air valve
Air valve > Wire > Switch > Wire > 12V Batter +.
But this is my problem, I’ve taken it to a mechanic and he says that the air valve itself is broken? When I flick the switch the valve itself doesn’t ‘click’ as the instruction manual says it’s suppose to, and when the air compressor is full it wont let the air through, he suggested that it was either that the valve itself was broken or due to the fact that it says ‘operating pressure 150PSI’ but yet on my compressor it shows that it will go to 140PSI, the air valve I received with my kit was a
HornBlasters Brass High-Flow 1/2in Air Valve
I’m just wondering but is it because the pressure isn’t enough or is it due to the valve itself being broken? I’m just wondering if I received the wrong air valve or do I need to buy a new one?
Thank you, I have a major thought that the valve is broken itself, everything is in the right direction, I’ve gone ahead and ordered a new valve now anyway, thanks.
A good way to find out, is to just take the valve off. Test it with a 9v battery. Some people may not know that little battery is all it takes to open that valve. It doesnt matter which line connects to the ground
Crap man, I spent two days getting my horn all setup and tonight when I’m about to wire the air valve as the last thing I need to do, no juice. I’m guessing I’m having the same issue. Pretty disappointing!
I would suggest to everyone that they tested their valve first off, I did exactly the same, spent literally all day wiring and mounting my horns and bolting down my compressor, but then the last bit with the air valve, and it just wouldn’t click at all, when the book says ‘quiet click’ it’s honestly not that quiet and you will be able to hear it without any problems, if you can’t hear that then you defo need a new valve, sorry about that mate
So much for quality control, guess they don’t test these things before they box them up. Pretty crappy if you ask me. Especially since it’s such a common problem.:mad:
Not sure it’s that common. Solenoid Valves are pretty reliable because they’re so darn simple. Like anything mass produced though, you’re bound to cop a bad egg occasionally.
First thing to try if it’s not working would be to take the valve out, have a good look at the wire going into the coil housing and make sure it hasn’t split, pulled out or cracked somewhere; clean strip some new ends of the wire and put them straight across the car battery terminals because I’ve seen way too many cases of low voltage or bad ground connections on solenoids.
Yeah that’s annoying, especially when you’re fanging to test a new install of air horns. At least you’re dealing with a reputable vendor who’ll look after you.
Did HB give you an ETA on how long it’d take to do a swap on the valve?
We are still going through emails this morning so you should hear back from us. If you followed the trouble shooting from the above posts, then you very well could be correct in having a faulty valve. As DBO stated (Thank you!), these valve come tested from our manufacturer facility but yes there can be a bad valve. Feel free to give us a call to discuss swapping this out or your email should be responded to this morning. I am sorry for the inconvenience. We will make this right and you will, no doubt, enjoy your horns very soon
