Well, as i have been reading and falling off my chair laughing at the videos, i’ve decided to start saving my pennies for an air horn kit.
I’m Stu from England, nicknamed speedy since school and for the life of me can’t remember why now, but friends still call it me, so it’s stuck
Got myself an MG ZT V8… quite a familiar engine to some of you guys though - the 4.6 mustang GT engine, what a lump! MG-Rover kind of got bored and bought a warehouse load, squeezed them in and sold them lol!
But down to the horns. I’ve been looking at the Conductor’s Special Model 240 Train Horn Kit, looks a brilliant peice of kit
Got some n00b questions though sorry (i’ll ask here first, but if someone can direct me to relavent threads or whatever that would be cool)
It says refils the tank from 110 to 150 psi, i assume i can’t use ALL the air… or can i?
And lastly, wiring. Do i simply just cut into the cars standard horn wiring with a switch to isolate the boring one and power the big boys?
Ahh gotcha, cheers! - I want to have it on the normal button because on our wonderful roundabouts, people do like to drift over casualy into your lane, so normal steering wheel button would be best (creature of habbit lol!)
I really cant wait to wake some of these morons up when they try to take the front of my car off
I can’t help you but I’ve seen a thread where somebody controls which horn is activated whether together or separately. Some can activate them with a remote and have tied the air horns to their alarm system. I guess it just takes money and ingenuity
If the kit comes with a wiring kit with a switch and wire connectors, the easiest thing to do to wire it to your stock horn button it to use one of the wire taps that come in the kit, tap into the wire next to your stock horn up front under the hood. Then run the wire into the cabin, attach it to the toggle switch, run a wire from the toggle switch to the solenoid valve. Then attach the other wire on the solenoid valve to ground. Then you can flip the switch on for the big horns and stock horn at the same time, off for the stock horn only.
That might be me you’re referring to! I have 3 different horns, all air, and I can blow 1 or 2 or 3 or any combination at will. I put links in my signature if you want pictures, and hear the setup. It did take a little time to figure out how to wire everything so they would work separately and not blow fuses (which only cost me a grand total of ONE fuse before I figured it all out), but it wasn’t all that expensive. The switches were maybe $4 each, the switch box I used was maybe $5 for the box, the top, and the strain relief. The colored safety caps were the most expensive individual parts of the switch box, believe it or not! The Shocker setup (horns, compressor, tank, etc) was the big $$$…the rest of the stuff I either had left over or picked up cheap.
Big Yella has it correct, and if you leave the toggle in the on position, and your alarm goes off, it will honk the regular horn, in addition to the train horn.
The train horn will go off with the alarm as long as the alarm uses the stock horn. My alarm uses it’s own siren so my stock horn doesn’t blow with the alarm. I could however tie the train horn into my alarm siren to make that happen.
I have 3 different horns, all air, and I can blow 1 or 2 or 3 or any combination at will. I put links in my signature if you want pictures, and hear the setup. It did take a little time to figure out how to wire everything so they would work separately and not blow fuses (which only cost me a grand total of ONE fuse before I figured it all out), but it wasn’t all that expensive. The switches were maybe $4 each, the switch box I used was maybe $5 for the box, the top, and the strain relief. The colored safety caps were the most expensive individual parts of the switch box, believe it or not! The Shocker setup (horns, compressor, tank, etc) was the big $$$…the rest of the stuff I either had left over or picked up cheap.