horn wiring

Ok so i have a hornblasters kit in ny truck right now.
Its setup to a switch, when i turb the switch on it blasts until i switch it off
how can i run the horns to my factory horn buttin and not have my regular horn boow at te same time?

What you want can be achieved by installing an SPDT (Single Pole Dual Throw) switch or relay on the wire that’s going to the air solenoid. The switch will basically allow you to choose between one circuit or the other (e.g. stock horn or train horn).

Have a look at the first page of this thread.
There’s a good diagram from Ear2Ear on post#6 which shows you exactly how you need to wire and install an SPDT toggle switch.

Don’t hesitate to ask if you have more questions.

So the switch that came in the kit will not work?( its a toggle switch with 2 wires coming off of it)
I need a switch with 3 prongs?

Yes you need a SPDT switch with 3 prongs.

What kind of truck do you have? The newer GM trucks have a negative switched horn wire & complicates things a little…

Like E2E said, when it’s a manual switch it will have 3 pins (circuit 1, common, circuit 2). On an SPDT relay you will have 5 pins ( the two extra ones being for the coil that throws the switch).

Its a 2001 tundra
I appreciate all the help but could you guys put this into regular terms for me? haha

Well, we can’t get much more plain than a diagram with instructions… :o lol
If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask.

I think i get it
but where should i snip the horn wire? under the hood?

Splice into the horn wire in a place that suits your installation or one that allows you the easiest access. Generally that does mean under the hood. Most important is for you to be sure you’re cutting the right wire - doing so right next to the horn should make that easier since you should see the wire going into the horn.

Ok cool
last question…
Someone said if my horn os negativepy charged it will be moee difficult then that, is this true?

^^^ I’m impressed E2E :smiley:

Yes, in fact I searched a well known website (the12volt.com) for your Tundra wiring, but they didn’t have your year. Although they have a 2000 Tundra:

It appears to be negative switched. There are a couple ways to do it. There was a pretty lengthy thread on it recently. Do a search or maybe I can find it.

If you have understood the previous concept then this will be no more difficult to understand. Consider this:

  • On your air solenoid you have two wires. One wire needs positive, the other needs negative. It doesn’t matter which way you hook that up - if you have 12v (+) and (-) then the solenoid will energize and open the valve.

Traditionally, horns are wired so that they are already earthed against the negative of the battery. When the horn button switch is pressed, it provides positive power to that line (and through the horn). That type of system is positive switched. A negative switched circuit is where there is a constant connection to the positive and the switch, when pressed, grounds the circuit.

You can check which version you have by using a multimeter. Put one test lead against the horn and the other to ground (earth). If you have 12V indicating on the meter, you have a negative switched circuit. If you have no power indicating (and you get continuity between horn line and ground) then you you have a positive switched circuit. Another good pointer is to look at how the stock horn is wired. If there is only one wire (i.e. single connector pin on the horn) then you have a positive switched system because the power comes down the line and the horn itself is already earthed against the chassis through it’s mount.

Essentially it makes little to no difference, but you do have to observe the hookup to your solenoid wire once it’s spliced into the horn wire (either connecting it to 12V positive for a negative switched system; or to ground for a positive switched system)