Just Bought a Set Of K3LA's

jimmypop · July 31, 2009, 1:54pm

Its amazing how i get amped up so fast.
In one week went from 3ltr chinese compressor/tank 120psi TO
3 gallon tank
200psi switch
bla bla bla its in my Sig.

Was looking into Shockers when i stumbled across a new set of K3LA’s
they were fired once.
So i have to cut psi down to 150 ???
How long B4 the Nathans need maintence ??
thanks
James

Curt_S · July 31, 2009, 2:39pm

Aside from cleaning the diaphragms once a year if the horns are prone to pick up road dirt, then they don’t need any maintenance.

Again you dont have to go to 150. Buts its just better for a nicer sound, and less stress on your electrical system.

jimmypop · August 10, 2009, 3:24pm

OK - Just picked up my horns today. And they are fn huge
im not sure if i will be able to mount these on my car.
Maniflodis 18" long
the post to manifold is 9.5"
Horn 1 - 8"
Horn 2 - 16"
Horn 3 - 12.5"
having a flashback to the first set of horns i purchased Omega AH-300…
never mounted them…

So the nathans look small in a picture BUT REALLY BIG!!!

stuntgod · August 10, 2009, 4:14pm

I will buy them off you!!!

farmerehsan · August 10, 2009, 4:15pm

whered u get em? i ll buy em

jimmypop · August 10, 2009, 4:19pm

Arent these horns available ?? I bought them from a collector.
who tried them 1X after buying them new…

I really want to mount them to my car … gonna have to peek under the chassis

HOW OLD are these ???

Stinkypete · August 10, 2009, 4:20pm

that picture is just Porn!!!.. my should be in the post now!

riddick1224 · August 10, 2009, 5:47pm

Yeah they look just like mine. Of course I haven’t installed mine yet either. But I have plenty of room under my truck where the spare tire would be. I say don’t sell them and get with farmerehsan, he has brackets to mount them as singles and not all together.

honduhh · August 10, 2009, 10:01pm

yea def look into getting some brackets. if it weren’t for those, i never would’ve been able to mount my k3 on my honda

jimmypop · August 11, 2009, 9:32pm

feeling poor. gonna make something myself, could use some advice.
James

Diesel_Sniper · August 20, 2009, 12:40am

TheHornDoc:

according to Chris Moyer,

A K air horn is based on the principle of a kettle drum, hence the “K” model. As such, the diaphragm assembly is a pair of disks separated by a silicone ring. In addition to the diaphragm disks, the only other parts of a K train horn are the diffuser ring, back cap, and bell. The mounting foot, orifice, diaphragm housing, and nozzle are also all cast on the same piece as the bell, with is cast aluminum. Early models (up until 1977) were sand cast, and all models since are die-cast. The diffuser attaches to the bell with three cap screws. To complete assemble the horn, just place the diaphragm assembly into the back cap, and attach the back cap to the bell using the six bolts. The bolts thread into the diaphragm assembly, and regular hex-head bolts should be used if restoring the horn to prototypic construction.

tips

Disassembly is as simple as the assembly mentioned above. However, sometimes the diaphragm will get stuck in the back cap. If this happens, you can use an air gun to blow into the relief hole in the back cap to free the diaphragm assembly. Once apart, the nozzle should be checked for corrosion or other problems. The nozzle and outer seat on the bell should all be flat and in the same plane. If they are not, they can be remachined, or as some have done, brought back in check using a very fine grit sandpaper on a flat surface. I personally have never restored a K horn bell like this, and will leave the details to others who have.

Also, check the diaphragm. If it is worn, just flip the entire assembly (as long as there are no cracks). If either disk is cracked, or if the silicone ring is cracked, that piece (or the entire diaphragm) should be replaced. Another possible problem is that the diaphragm disk will be concave inward. This can also be solved usually by reversing the assembly, or by very carefully removing and reversing just the problem disk. Just be very careful not to tear the silicone ring, as it must remain in-tact to seal the air between the disks.

Beyond that, there’s not much that can go wrong with a K horn. If the diffuser is cracked, it can be replaced. If the base gasket between the bell and manifold is bad, that can also be easily recreated or replaced. The newer die-cast bells (late 1970s and beyond) do not have a gasket, but rather have an O-ring that fits into a machined grove around the orifice inlet. You may have to replace worn O-rings as well on these bells.

Beyond repairing and maintaining a K horn, some people like to try to “fine-tune” their horns, or adjust the starting order. As for the fine tuning, this is usually an attempt to get rid of the warble present on most K horns. Since the diaphragms will all wear slightly different at different pressures, the best that can be done usually is to eliminate the warble at one specific pressure. To make these adjustments or to change the starting order, there are a couple options. Swapping diaphragm disks between bells, or replacing new with old, or old with new diaphragm ***emblies can sometimes bring the desired effect. Also, swapping back caps even may have an effect on these two factors. If you are particular about your K horns, try these to adjust your horn.

Hey Doc,
Thanks for all the info. Found it very usefull. Good reading!