And BTW, thank you very much in advance for responding.
The “Air Valve”. When the horn is “beeped” is what causes the release of air from that point, and the air passing through the horns is what causes the horns to sound, correct?
In the manual basic diagram there is what is referred to as an AIR SWITCH. This is a VIAIR part, which is perhaps 3" x 2" x 2" with a 3/8" reduced threaded male end, says 110 psi ON, 150 psi OFF, has 2 red wires, 1 white, 1 black. This part appears to screw into a reducer that takes it up to 1/2 inch threaded plug that screws into one of the tank ports. Correct?
Well, I also have a small part that says VIAIR, it has the same 3/8" reduced male thread, but appears to be a small plug that says 110 psi ON, 145 psi OFF, does not have the the grey box w/wires, but rather is a small plug that ends in two silver colored terminals opposite the 3/8" male threaded insert. It does not appear on my basic diagram anywhere. What is this, please?
I have a small 4 prong plug, about 1" square with a mounting lip that indicates VIAIR S10-1A-NY 12VDC, 12V 40 A. It also has some other electrical language “stuff” printed on it. What am I supposed to do with this please?
I have what appears to be an automotive fuse holder. It has a snap off top that the encloses where the fuse goes. 10 gauge wire, red see through insulation. Problem is the wire comes out of 1 side of the fuse holder and circles back into the other side, so that nothing can be attached without cutting it. Am I supposed to cut this, please?
I kinked the @#%$# hard 1/2 OD air line running it underneath my truck. I have straightened it out, but there is still a slight kink in there. Should I cut it out and put a junction in there? If yes, is the junction a part I can get at Home Depot or Sears?
I just found out by reading elsewhere on this forum that the “Over The Road” K5LA, which mine is stamped, has an air pressure reducer in the manifold where on the mounting plate side, the air input is normally attached. Does anyone know if I remove the 1/2" side manifold plug, install that in the top input, and run the air into the now free 1/2" side manifold opening with a compression fitting plug… will that defeat the reducer, or do I still have to remove it?
The drain cock is the small 3/8" threaded male part that also screws into the 1/2 " reducer plug which then screws into the bottom tank port. It has a small knurled plug that twists, and by twisting it, opens and releases water and air from the tank, right? Well there is another part that seems similar, is not mentioned either in the directions nor does it appear on the basic schematic: It has a small pull ring that appears to do about the same thing, except rather than unscrewing it, the small ring is grasped and pulled. Is this just an air pressure release plug that I should mount on one of the side ports on the tank? Assuming so, do you release the air here first, and then unscrew the drain cock to release water?
I know that some of you bro’s will be great and answer my ignorant and inane questions. But uuuugggggghhhhhhhhhh! If the @%@#E$ manual had some @#$@#$ diagrams of the component assemblies, I’d be out blasting right now rather than bugging you all for answers.
Well I cant answer all of them bc Im new to the game myself. however I can answer a couple.
1.) Yes
5.) Yes cut that. I thought it was weird too but you cut that and that wire goes with the compressor power wire. I would just hook one end up to your 12volt source or battery and the other end connects with the wire going to the compressor.
6.) I would test to see if there is a leek with soapy water solution and by having air blown through the line. However if you dont care you could always cut that piece out and get a junction. And as to where, Napa auto parts had them for me. Im sure other auto parts stores would have them too as well as Home Depot or Lows.
8.) Yes that is what I do. Release the air first so when I undo the drain clock there is no pressure in the tank.
im guessing thats the solenoid?
7.the reducer is going to diminish the sound so nathan doesnt get in trouble for selling the horns directly. just take it out
2 that is your pressure switch with built in relay USE THIS PART it is what shuts your compressor off when ithe tank gets full
3 and 4 they also sent you a second pressure switch with seperate relay save this if your other pressure switch goes bad you can use this…
5 yes you cut this it is the way these are made,
6 yes you can get this at home depot you need a 1/2" to 1/2 inch comppression or push to connect fitting
7 you can take the brass air reducer all the way out and leave it out whis is to lower the volume of the horns so they are “legal” i would take it out and use the hole that was ment to use,
8 the plug with the ring can be mounted any where it is a saftey pressure release valve so if your compressor keeps running for some reason that valve will open and let air out instead of blowing up yout tank
Well, I got my K5LA today and, to my surprise, it’s an over the road model. I was really worried at first, until I found out that the only difference is a small restrictor that is installed in the manifold. I removed the red plastic cap covering the hole in the bottom of the manifold and looked down inside the hole. I could see the restrictor in there. I got a 5/16" allen wrench and removed the restrictor, and this is what it looks like.
It’s just a plug with a very small hole drilled in it. I can’t believe just how much they restrict the flow for the over the road version!
I did a plumbing project in my kitchen today which should have taken 2 hours but took 6…
To finish the horn project, I need to complete the wiring. The grounds are all done, I’ve run the power and the trigger wire up to the front of the truck. I need to run the power switch up there.
Rigo tried to give me some pointers on wiring, including a web page called:
I can get the compressor power off the battery no problem. I can probably find the horn wires and tie into there for the trigger switch. Frankly I have NO idea of how to tie into the ignition switch wire for power. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. I may enlist the help of a friend on Saturday.
I’m looking forward to getting this going.
And thank you, sincerely, from the heart of my bottom …er uh, I mean the bottom of my heart.
I am eternally grateful for your help. BTW, being eternally grateful only means I’ll never pay you back…
YUP! I took mine out Sunday as well. I realize HB has some possible legal liability in a worst case legal scenario, but I had already mounted my horns when I found this out, and then had to take them out. Would have been good to know before hand …
BTW, I didn’t have much clearance between the bracket my spare tire was mounted on and the bottom of my truck bed. I found a flexible lead in hose at Home Depot, that has a kink free hose and a ball-swivel type joint. Seemed like a good way to handle the sharp curve to get the air line in through the top port of the manifold, so I grabbed it!
so your having a problem wiring it to a 12 volt ignition source (for the compressor)? same here. My mechanic friend looked on a site but it needs a log in and ended up telling me where one was on my accord, however it was difficult to find, I ended up just putting it to the battery and adding a toggle switch. So as long as the toggle is off there isnt power running the compressor. just dont forget to turn it off, because if you have a leak then the compressor runs while your car is off and it could drain your battery…but thats what I did because I was lazy.
That’s a good idea, I like your thinking. I have a good friend who is an electrical engineer and another who says he has wired other things up to his ignition circuit before. Has a test light, says to use that both with the key off and on, to find something to tie into.
I’ll be seeing both these guys this week. If I get some good info to pass along I will gladly do so.
Well, I got the setup to the point where I could give it a test. Just awhile ago it was about 1:00 am here in my garage and I just gave it a quick double hit… WOW! I mean, DAMN!! I don’t think I’ve been around a horn THAT loud, up close. Of course the garage door was also closed, but still… WOW!
That’s going to be like having a nuclear bomb to blast . HA!
My friend is going to wire the air switch into my fuse panel off the ignition for me tomorrow A.M. For testing purposes I just put that + wire on the + terminal of my battery to get the compressor to kick on.
Question: (please) When completely installed, how long should the viair 400C run to fill that 10 gallon tank? Mine seemed to run for about 5 minutes before I pulled the wire off the battery. The compressor motor did slow down after about 4 minutes but didn’t stop on its own. I know there’s a pressure relief plug so it can’t overfill. Admittedly I didn’t test for leaks, however it was dead quiet in my garage and I couldn’t hear any hissing. I also didn’t time it exactly but just counted 60 seconds off in my head.
Thanks! I’ll post an update after we finish up tomorrow.
I appreciate all your help guys, and am really looking forward to this!
Do you have a pressure switch installed? Sorry if you said in an earlier post, I didn’t want to check through all 4 pages lol
If you have a 110-145 PSI pressure switch, it should take around 3 and a half minutes to fill a 10 gallon tank. If you have a 165-200 PSI pressure switch, it should take about 5 minutes. Hope this helps and Lance can chime in if I am wrong.
I do have the 110/145 Viair pressure switch installed. I’ll double check the wiring and check for leaks as well. But thanks for the fill time estimate.
It seems like a good idea to have a pressure gauge installed too. I’ll see if I can pick one up…
Everything is working as it should, the air switch is cutting the compressor off.
I left the truck for hours, came back & started it up, and the compressor didn’t turn on, so I’m confident I have no leaks. I used teflon tape and plumbers pipe thread sealant (I had a jar handy) on all port-plug connections.
Well, the K5LA horn kit REALLY is a lot of fun. I can’t get over how LOUD and DEEP these are. Just a quick short blast is enough to startle the snot out of most people I was out on the pike today, pulled up alongside an 18 wheeler and gave him a double blast with a thumbs up. He laughed and started blasting back at me. Fun stuff, I was definitely louder
I can’t imagine how loud the multiple set up of K5LA’s-K3LA’s that some of you guys have. Just a regular K5LA is soooooo over the top already.
I again thank you guys for helping me out with the install.
and another who says he has wired other things up to his ignition circuit before. Has a test light, says to use that both with the key off and on, to find something to tie into.