Looking to upgrade from my Hadley to a bigger horn. I’ve been using the factory horn switch and a switch with a relay to select which horn blows. I like the idea of not having to add any plumbing to my interior. I am kind of warming to the idea of a manual valve as it seems that you can “play with the sound” more than you can with an electric valve. I saw somewhere on the forum that a non metered manual valve will actually give more responsive results. If I can figure out a manual valve set up in my truck that I’m comfortable with I may go for it. HB offers 2 manual valves and 12 electric ones. My main question is what are most of you using? Is it an even split or is one style more popular than the other?
I use both but if I’m blowing the horn for the fun of it, then it’s almost exclusively on the manual. The solenoid valve is good for that sharp shock value for when someone’s done something stupid in traffic.
It’s not that the non-metered version will give you a more responsive result. It’s the ability to feather the horn (i.e. slowly feed in the air flow). I haven’t tried the non-metered version of the Graham White so can’t give you a direct comparison. I’ve got a metered version and it’s essentially two stages of air flow (very difficult to let through just a trickle of air). If you want real fine control over your air flow then a ball valve is probably the ticket. The only thing is they are not spring loaded so you have to manually open and close it off again. Benefits are that they are real cheap compared to the train valves, especially the Graham White 353.
All of the Graham valves I’ve seen are metered or they don’t specify which they are. Do you know where to find non metered ones? Don’t care for the ball valve because I’d want it shut off when I release the handle.
I’ve looked at you install and vids. Dual system could do the trick for me also. I like your handle along side your seat but I don’t have enough room. Best place so far is in front of my console if I hard pipe it so it stands up in the air where I can reach it.
As far as shock value, I got cut cut off in my wife’s car on the way home tonight. Should add in a relay to turn all lights and high beams on when using the electric valve!
I like the presentation you did with the diagrams and installs. I’m using pencil cad to work on my wiring right now. I did notice a problem with your car though. Perhaps it is still under warranty? It seems that the factory installled your steering wheel on the wrong side of the car. Looks awkward!
It’s on the “right” side isn’t it? Get’it? Huh?(hmmm… Tough crowd)
Hey check out the Black Widow1/2" manual valve that Hornblasters sells. From memory I think those were unmetered but double check with them. If you’re chasing a Graham White you may have to lodge a special order for the non-metered version (it has 3 grooves on the valve stem).
I had a solenoid and switched to a graham white valve that was the best thing I did to my system so much fun being able to feather it when I want to.
I’m trying to do mine electrically with 4 stages of 1/4" valves.
The thing looks like a piece of space junk. I haven’t tested it yet.
Just trying not to run air into the cab.
Yes, keeping air out of the cab is appealing. If I stay electric I don’t need to add anything inside as I have the upfitter switches already there. The price on that Black Widow valve is attractive though. Quality any good?
Biggest problem with going manual is that I haven’t decided on a mounting location that would make me happy.
Haven’t heard anything bad about the black widow valve.
I’m with you, though. I bought a Graham White and just not thrilled about mounting it anywhere.
Yeah I remember seeing the photos of that monster you rigged up. Looked awesome, although not very compact.
Have you considered doing something with a servo actuated ball valve perhaps? A simple servo tester would give you proportional control over the position, the rest would just be mechanics (i.e. rigging up a reduction drive to the ball valve from the servo.). A tester like this can be had for less then $3 from eBay.
^^^ Yeah, it’s not very compact. I could (may have to) pretty easily re-orient everything & also use flex tubing. The hardlines take a lot of room.
I haven’t really messed with servo motors or controls so it’s a little intimidating. I’ve done a lot with industrial sized gearboxes, motors, chain drives, belt drives, etc…
I bought 5 micro switches and designed a spring loaded lever that gradually activates each switch. The thing fits in the palm of your hand.
What about something like Marlin009’s remote manual valve?
Its thin and no pluming to the interior.
Sweet set up. It’s not so much install room, I was more so curious as to what valve most folks are using. I like the electric because it’s easy to mash the factory horn button when a scroffulous bastard cuts you off. The manual valve seems more fun to play with and make “train horn sounds”.
Yea the manual is more for metering the horn. I have a graham white just didnt install yet. I use the SMC valve right now, my horn sounds awesome also.
Just for the fun of it, I bought one of those cheap servo controllers, a metal gear servo and a 1/2" stainless steel ball valve off eBay to see if I could put together a cheap electronic “manual” valve.
Seems like the idea could be possible. This was just to see if the servo has enough grunt to turn the valve and it sure looks like it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZubCyWe075I&feature=youtu.be
I’ll build a proper housing to hold both the valve and the servo to see if I can turn it into something usable.
You sir, are addressing every reason I thought this was not feasible.
So how much is a servo that’s big enough?
Keep it up!
The servo is an MG995 with metal gears and a stall torque of up to 208oz/in. Cost me 12.95 shipped. There’s a fair bit or torque needed to make the valve turn but the servo seems to power through it without too much worry.
All up, I’ve think I’ve spent less than $30 (servo tester, ball valve and the servo) so far on various bits, so it’s a fairly cheap experiment. To get it into a vehicle you’d have to consider building a 12V to 5V power supply, plus the bracket/enclosure.
Not sure how long something like this would last. To be on the safe side, I reckon you’d want a standard solenoid valve in-line with it to act as a cut-off in case the electronics go haywire on you. I’ll see if I can get it all into a sturdy arrangement and then I might put it into the wife’s car with the Shockers to see how it performs.