I was searching the forum the other day and someone had a link for a manual metering valve with a custom, tubular floor mount. Of course, now I can’t find it!:mad:
Does this sound familiar to anyone?
no but has me interested
Look like this one?
4Vo1OWBK8ylt7+d!~~_3.JPG)
Yes, I believe it did - though the picture I remembered was fairly small and hard to pick out much detail on it.
So enough suspense - where did you get it or did you fab it?
The great detail on your photo is giving me some really good ideas on how to make my own.
Do you know if the valve is a simple 1/4 turn ball valve?
You wouldn’t happen to have any sound clips of your Leslie being controlled by it?
I’m trying to get a better feel for the sound difference between a manual valve and a solenoid operated horn.
that valve is a standard ball valve like you can get at any hardware store its just chrome plated and has a fancy mounting base. the local tuck stop here had them…
Typically, ball valves have poor throttling characteristics; so would there be any benefit in using this?
I’m thinking in diaphragm life and/or sound quality / control.
If it was a vee-ball valve I can see a lot better control.
buy you a cheap ball valve from homdepot try it out and if you like it buy that one lol
That’s actually not mine but I recall seeing one similar here on the forum. Saw that one on Ebay and remembered your posting this thread.
I used to have a ball valve for static blowing of my horns before I got the GW valves. The standard ball valve actually makes it alot easier to “quill” or “feather” your horn. You have alot more control with a normal ball valve. You can do the same on GW but it takes longer to get the hang of as they are fairly hard to pull with air behind them.
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I found a fun little project to mess around with!!:rolleyes:
If you are looking for a floor standing unit like that , it could easily be done with a GW or GW clone (like i got) , and some fittings and 1/2" black pipe, or galvanized… sand it down, prime it , paint it whatever color you want , or chrome paint it .
heres mine.
If I had your center console I would do exactly like you have yours. Unfortunately, my truck has the middle seat, so I’ll have to look at a free standing unit mounted to the floor.
Does your GW need a lot of force to operate, as compared to a simple ball valve? My concern with the GW is if it takes too much force to operate and it’s mounted above the floor the lever arm could magnify the force and damage the mount.
I know I can weld up a bracket that won’t go any where, but if it gets too big and ugly it probably won’t make it to the truck.
It does have some resistance where force is required to pull it but thats becasue of the spring inside… A standard ball valve wont have a spring…
Now mine is bolted right into the plastic on the counsel with just a washer behind it and its holding up great… The plastic on counsel is not very strong at all either so that shows that if you just had 1/2" pipe coming off the valve like the chrome style one, it would be super strong!
take a look around your seat , or behnd it , theres gotta be a spot to put it to w/in reach
Here ya go. Look in my album for more superduty pics. That is on the transmission tunnel.
That is in the fuse panel location done by my buddy Dave. That is a superduty too.
Dirty Jersey
Where did you bring your airlines into / out of your super duty’s cab area?
Did you use DOT plastic brake line? If so, did you bend it to form 90s or more? I’m planning on using 5/8" or 3/4" line and am concerned with the bend radius the tubing will require so it doesn’t kink. I know I could splice in elbows, but I like to minimize the joints (and leaks).
2003 FORD EXPLORER
Brought the lines up from the back and under the seats.