Currently I am running a push button - solenoid valve. I have been thinking about installing a manual valve for my K5LA. Has anyone used a manual valve on a set of K5LA? I was wondering what the difference in sound it would make by varying the flow as opposed to a push button and wide open air flow. I am running 3/4" Goodyear airline and might have trouble running the line into the cab and fabricating a mount for the valve. Any suggestions? I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra Double Cab.
i think with a manual valve the only difference will be the timing of how fast the valve opens up…
manual valve will make it sound more authentic… too much trouble if u ask me though…
too much trouble if u ask me though…
Thats what I was afraid someone would say…lol…
too much trouble if u ask me though…
Thats what I was afraid someone would say…lol…
Hopefully they will come out with rheostat type solenoid valve soon.
[b]buckfever, just so happen to have a yota smaller than that tundra with a graham/white valve.check it out! sits just to the left of the drivers seat.works like a champ also!
[/b]
from the backside
Awesome, that is exactly what I had in mind, but I wanted to put it on the other side of the drivers seat near the console. I would be all over that thing at 3 AM getting in the truck to go to work… (HONK)(HONK)…lol… if it were on the door side of the seat…lol…nice set up and thanks for sharing. I will give it some thought.
buck , actually have to pull up to actuate. no false alarms.used 3/4" rubber grommet for the floorboard of the 1/2" air hose. bolted mount to floor board also.not going anywhere.definately couldn’t be seen by the law if you got stopped and questioned also unless he asked you to get out.
Nothing sounds quite like a metering valve! I have a solenoid and a metering valve installed in my set up. Although, the metering valve is not at my finger tips. Mounted behind the rear passenger seat on a board spanning the width of the shell/bed; where my tank is mounted. Just a test bed before I mount it on the floorboard next to the console. My friends who sit in the back can actuate the valve. Or…I can pull a rope that’s tied off on the handle…kinda crude but it works. Only temporary, will have pix when the correct install is pulled off.
ive seen people use ball valves with long handles
Also, you don’t have to spend as much on a Graham-White. A ball valve from a hardware store works just as good, if not better. And yes, a manual valve sounds tons better. You can sound the bells in a “firing sequence” rather than all at once with just a slow turn of the wrist. My friend made a bracket that just bolts to the seat bolt on the passenger seat. He doesn’t worry about the cops because he only puts a horn on his truck for shows and such.
Summary: Ball valves work just as good (Pros: cheap, hardware store, sound bells in sequence rather than all at once Cons: Harder to install, have to run line into cab somehow)
I’ve used ball valves statically when testing rebuilds. Not quite the same sound since Graham White valves are 2 stage…
My God, we’re freakin horn geeks!:(:o
haha yeah but it’s fun being a horn geek. I don’t even have a vehicle with them on it, I just collect them
YAY post 100
i dont have a real train horn yet…i guess im not horny enough…lmao
I started off with a HornBlasters Chrome Omega 3 chime…that mofo was loud! I installed it on my friends RV. it’s pushing 145psi. and is louder than an 18 wheeler…
haha we’re threadjacking but I started off with a Siege Engineering 3 horn junkpile
I’ve bought airtanks from Siege. The first one I bought was ok but the second one I bought was a piece of Shatner (as in William) made in China (although all things made in China aren’t shatner) with one of the legs welded off kilter. Their horns never impressed me…
welcome to senior member status! lol
haha Quagmire Alll right giggidy goo