Well haven’t found a lot about these particular horns on here so figured I would start a thread. I just purchased the Nathan K6 Horns from RealTrainHorns.net. Of course will be a few days before they get here I figure but hey why not get a jump on a post haha.
Anyways I will have to purchase components for my air system separate and likely in pieces as I get paid but my planned build is somewhere between 8 am and 12 Gallon tank. Dual Air Zenith OB2’s filling to 200psi likely running a regulator to lower pressure to the horns a little once I find one of good high flow rate. 3/4in Electric Valve wired to the horn with an On/Off/On style switch for regular horn or Train horn selection. As well as likely adding a Graham White valve for when I want authentic sound.
I have already spoken with RealTrainHorns about the setup and they advised me the only thing I need to make sure of is to put a check valve on the line feeding to the manual valve so I don’t back feed when activating the electric valve.
Well that’s my plan so far this is all going on a 2006 Dodge Ram Mega Cab 2500 Cummins. So I have tons of room on my frame rails to mount the remote mount horns. My spare tire is useless with my wheels so it will be removed to likely house tank and compressor setups. I will also be installing an air attachment in the rear somewhere for airing up tires and running air tools.
One question I do have though is are the Air Zenith OB2’s okay to side mount to the frame rails? I know viair is okay on the side and the only position not to mount them is upside down. But wasn’t sure on the OB2’s.
Any input on this buildup would be appreciated. Thanks
Same with the OB2s - anything except upside down. They do have a fan on the top that probably shouldn’t get too wet, and I would recommend ordering the filter relocation kit so you can put the filter somewhere dry.
Welcome to the forum! The OB2s are good but not the fastest 12V air compressors inspite of some websites and magazine articles. Oasis 12V & 24V air compressors have been the world’s fastest for 7+ years and will be until proven otherwise.
Check valves don’t cost much, but that’s porkies - sorry. How can it back feed through the manual valve? It’s a closed loop system where the pressure coming out of the electric valve is the same as the line feeding the manual valve. Just like electricity the air is going to choose the path of least resistance (i.e. go out through the horns) it’s certainly not going to push through the valve (even in reverse).
He did not explain it to me but I had already thought about it in my head and it made since, you have lines with no air in the (exit of manual and exit of electric. There is a T fitting where they plumb back together at the exit of the electric valve. My thought process is no it’s not going to do any damage to the valve but air tries to flow to the path of least resistance. Yes that path will be the horns but some air could initially be lost into the plumbing to the cab for the manual valve. I assume that is their thinking as well but I could be wrong.
So cheap and easy way to make sure no air is lost into that line in the initial opening of the valve is by using a check valve.
The one setup I have seen running both made no mention of using one but I don’t see why it could hurt.
True that, I’m still trying to figure out all the plumbing at the moment. I’m thinking 3/4in rubber lines. But I have to find all the fittings for it.
After looking more I will probably run the more standard 160psi setup of I go with a 12gallon tank as the tanks cost $$$$ quick for 200psi operating pressure.
Also it looks like tank will end up having to be in the Bed of the truck since the only 44in length I seem to have also occupies my 5" exhaust so that’s not going to work. Unless I went with multiple smaller tanks to get more volume but I really wasn’t wanting to go that route either.
I run both electric and manual valves in the one 200psi source system - and I don’t run a check valve on any of the output sides of the valves. One thing you will find with 200psi systems in particular is … ‘keep it simple’. The more fittings and valves you add to the mix the more potential trouble you’re introducing.
The only thing the extra check valve will do is act as a possibly point of restriction , potential failure, leakage, or all of the above. Up to you of course - just saying keep those aspects in mind when you’re weighing up whether that’s worth it.
Thank you, I do appreciate the input especially from someone already running a setup with both valves. I’ll have to take a look at your install when I get a chance.
Updating first post with pictures the K6 horns have arrived. My air tank setup is still in question at the moment as my wife does not approve of a bed mount tank and a 12gallon will not fit anywhere under the truck so it may end up a little complex by the time I’m done but I have to do more measuring once I take the spare tire out (it’s just wasted space being there right now anyways)
I would look into putting a York 210 engine driven compressor on the truck. I am working on the design of the brackets to go on my 2008 RAM Big Horn Edition Hemi 4x4 with the K5LAs. I believe Brackets are available for the Cummings engine already.
I got my York at a local U-Pick Parts for $37 out the door. I picked up a gasket set and I am installing a Glass sight to monitor the oil level. Changed the Alternator Pulley to one from Kilby Enterprises.
My preliminary install will start this weekend and finish next weekend. A Friend is pushing to get my Shockers for his truck.
I just looked at the mounting kit from Kilby, unfortunately for the 2003-2006 Cummins it’s $470 just for that then purchase the York 210 which isn’t bad as like you found one in the junkyard. But from what I see in my case it could cause a potential problem in the future for me when I Upgrade to Twins for my Turbohargers since the Kilby kit includes a new intercooler tube from the turbo.
From what I’m seeing Dual OB2’s should output around the peak of what the York 210 would be able to do (which requires higher than idle RPM anyways) so yeah the OB2’s will cost me a little more but I think they will be sufficient.
I did find out yesterday 2, 5 Gallon short fat tanks 20in x 9.5in fit perfectly under the bed where the spare tire used to be and their brackets actually fit into the brackets for the spare tire mount which gives me an awesome mounting location. So looks like I will doing a multiple tank setup after all. That also mounts the tanks upside down so they will have a good drain port.
Can dual OB2’s fill 5 gallons from 0 to 150 psi in 1 minute? A York 210 @ 1500 rpm does and most of the time a vehicle is being driven more than idling.
My biggest concern with the York 210 isn’t the RPM or fill time so much as when I saw for my application I have to replace intercooler piping it leads me to believe I will have problems with my Turbo Upgrade later on. And for my application the only time I’m above 1500 RPM is getting on it or 60mph+ on the highway really. But again that’s not my major issue with the setup.
If I could find some very good installed pictures and make sure there would be no issues later on I would go back that route. Plus I’m looking at possibly about 15 gallons of air now with the mounting locations I have available.
Okay so I have been looking more and more into my valve setup (I still plan on a manual graham white and electric) so my question is relation to electric valves. I am looking at the GC Xtreme 350 3/4" valve with 3/4" orifice. Should one of these fed via 3/4" ID Air hose be sufficient for a K6 setup or would I be better off with 2?
The manifold has 2 3/4" NPT threaded ends so I could mount 2 valves to it with a T fitting on one for the manual valve input as well. I have noticed 3/4" barb fittings can be quite expensive but I want to run full 3/4" ID line for these for the best flow.
Any suggestions here or am I on the mark with my plan?
