Hi there from La Place, LA…(20 mins from New Orleans) My name is Donny and Im a noob to the trainhorn scene. I just purchased a conductor special 540 kit for my 2008 tacoma Xrunner. I haven’t really looked at the kit yet to check its components but do have a few questions about wiring installation. I don’t plan on wiring it to a switch with the oem horn unless its absolutely required. I did plan on a push button switch in one of my spare blanks in the dash to trigger the horn.
My only potential issue is, how exactly would I go about properly wiring the compressor to kick on only when the truck is running? Is there a simpler way to just use a relay or a toggle switch? I’m not 12/24 volt savvy and don’t really want to go tinkering into my harnesses if I don’t have to…
yea, do a relay, or buy a pressure switch with a built in relay. and it will have 1 wire go to the battery, and another will go to a 12 volt source, one that you can pick, that is only hot when the car is running. Is that what you want to know?
More or less, I’m a bit unsure til I really start looking into the kit. I just dont want to tap into my existing harness, I really want to do it safely but at the same time keep the wiring modifications to a mininum.
Another option is to splice the relay into a component connection that is switched i.e. a cigarette lighter if it is one that turns off with your ignition, or tie it in where your stereo is tied in to the ignition wire.
Good luck and let us know what you end up doing. Oh yeah and honk those horns and I’ll listen for ya up the road a piece here in BR!
No man you don’t need 26 amps for the ignition lead, just for the power wire. The ignition lead only needs to be switched live so that the relay knows it’s time to turn on. Just like on your stereo there is a power wire which gives it juice, but there is also an ignition lead which simply tells it when to turn on/off.
No prob. Been using those for years since they’re so easy to use and get the job done. Main thing I’ve used them for is when hard-wiring my radar detector so I can hide the power line through the headliner, down the pillar, and to the fuse box…then my radar detector doesn’t stay on all the time and simply comes on when I need it. There is an easy kit on eBay that will fit most detectors which includes the power line and fuse tap all in one package…wires be gone!!
so i will have to seperate feeds, one switched and one for power? If that is the case can I just run a 30amp fuse directly from the battery and also the switched feed from the fuse box or whatnot to kick the relay? Is the relay a seperate purchase? Im a little confused I guess
First I must apologize…
I’ve been saying that you will tie the relay into your ignition wire when actually it’s the pressure switch that gets tied in. My bad, I knew what I meant but I switched them up when typing earlier.
I hope I didn’t confuse you by mixing the two components but it sounds like you are grasping the wiring. Nice thing is you have an all-in-one pressure switch / relay instead of separate components.
Yessir, thats the kit I bought…I see a basic toggle switch, that is not the trigger switch for the horn is it? I may have to find something a little nicer looking. I didn’t originally plan on using the oem horn button with a 3way toggle unless I had to, just to keep the modding of oem wiring to a minimum… Thanks for the help btw
Take a look at the installation guide, I believe that switch is to be used if you want to connect to your factory horn and be able to toggle between having the added horns on or off when you push the horn button on your steering wheel. It also states that you can mount a momentary button switch which I don’t believe is included in the kit. That button switch would be used to blow the horns separately from your factory car horn.
To confirm what I’m saying you may want to contact one of the guys at Hornblasters or maybe someone else on the forum can agree or correct me if I’m wrong.
