Well I figured this thread would be noticed alot quicker than my other…soo here we go…
ANY HELP is appreciated…
I installed everything back on the truck yesterday. I’m running push-on/push-lock fitting and 1/2" ID hose to a 1/2" air valve then to a 1/2" inlet port “log” style manifold with 4 - 3/8" ports. All of my hoses coming off the manifold are 19" long.
Problem 1: I laid into the horns really easy, but doing this yeilds a higher pitched tone(sounds like the shortest of all the horns) as if all the horns are going off at the correct time. With this being said would I need to shorten my hoses coming off the manifold due to the length of the manifold?
Problem 2: I have my horns hooked up to my stock horn wiring harness and it’s been this way since I first put my shockers on a few years back. But all the sudden the switch in the steering wheel stopped working while I was testing???!! The relay is fine. I unhooked the shockers from the wirng harness and hooked my factory horns back up and still nothing. I find this ironic that it stopped working after I put them back in.
Is there another relay or fuse in the stock wiring harness that I’m over looking?? The truck is a 99 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with a CUMMINS.
I did check my air valve to see if it just happened to be messed up, but I touched it to the positive battery terminal and it worked just fine.
Here are some pics of my setup…My tank and compessor are in a tool box in the bed of the truck.
Hello, You are luck I came across this. I have a 98.5 diesel. Dodges are notorious for BAD Grounds! Go to your Horn on the passanger side. you have two there. Pull the harness of. Get volt meter to the green with red tracer. And other probe to a good ground. Then have someone push on horn button. If you have voltage there its the horn relay is fine and factory horn is bad. Also they are known to break the horn wire from the horn button in the steering column. Check your fuse box underneath hood. The horn fuse is a 10 amp mini fuse. and the horn relay is pretty much right across from it. I was having a problem and my solenoid would work and it wouldn’t I found a clean ground and all good now. Also another problem is the clock spring in the steering wheel.
Relay was fine. My fog light relay is the same as the horn relay so I swapped them and the fog lights worked.
No 3 way switch, I just tapped the air valve wire into the stock horn wiring harness and unplugged the stock horns from it.
YOU ARE THE MAN! The mini fuse was blown! Mine is a 20 amp and not a 10 amp. I did not even think the fuses in the underhood relay/fuse box. I just looked at the relay.:rolleyes:
Also do the air valves have a specific ground wire? The two wires coming off the Vavle were identical so I just picked one to ground and went on with my install.
Now on to the bigger problem. My horns dont really sound good at all. They are LOUD as hell, but dont have the same tone as they did when I was running 5/16" hose from the tank to the horns.
When I just blip the horn they sound high pitched, but if I hold it down they sound better. Before I upgraded the line, if I bliped the horn button they would sound good and all together. Like I stated ealier, all my hoses are the same length… Im pretty bummed that I went to all this trouble and they end up sounding like poo.
Hello, Glad you resolved the fuse problem. Now for the horns you might have to adjust the pressure on the back caps to get them to fire with new pressures. Turn small allen head in back cap to no more than a 1/8" turn and as little as 1/16" Hope that may help.
As for hot? It’s not that hot out. Before I upgraded the line, it never squeeked.
Awesome info! So I’m thinking I would need to turn the smallest horn in so that it hits when the others do, Or would you try to match the others with the smaller horn?
I Need to get a video. This thing is loud as hell compared to what it was.
But the thing is, I’ve never had a problem with high pitches untill now.
I’m running the same PSI as I was before too.
I may pull them out and make sure nothing is clogging up the holes in the horns. I wouldnt think that the allen scres would need to be adjusted, but they are getting ALOT more air than they were I can tell you that!!!
By doing that to the diaphragm it puts more pressure on it. by doing one at a time while blowing it will make the other ones not work as hard. Go right down the line. Or go back to the original set up. I made a five chime B uell/HB shocker kit and still use 5/16" line and 1/4" solenoid. IF you want to see a vid I’ll post it.
That sounds real good! Which extra horn did u put on?
I just uploaded a few videos of mine and from what I can tell is that they sqeek when the PSI is high.
In this this video you can hear the compressor running and the horns are squeeky. Also when I do the short honks in all of the videos, im just blipping the horn button.
Now in this video the pressure is lower and the sqeek is there at first, but soon goes away when the PSI is low and they sound good.
What I did was get a single horn. Cut it and tune it to a desired chord. I can hear the squeal. I would try to find the one that was squealing. then can isolate that one and try to adjust the diaphragm pressure. I would take them down and fire them off on the ground or work bench, then plug each line shut with a plug or a piece of wooden dowel. What psi are you running? I used to run 145psi. Now I run 150 psi.
I’ll give it a shot, but its gonna be a major pain in the ****. The only air compressor I have is whats on the truck. So ill just have to take them down and set the on the ground that way. Also I gotta go find a nice place away from away from where I live to tinker with it since my neighbors already hate me because of the horns…
I’m running them at 150psi via a 110/150 pressure switch.
The mini fuse was blown! Mine is a 20 amp and not a 10 amp. I did not even think the fuses in the underhood relay/fuse box. I just looked at the relay.:rolleyes:
Im pretty bummed that I went to all this trouble and they end up sounding like poo.
