Shocker 240 kit on 1999 Honda Civic, installed completely under the hood. Nothing in the cabin, in the trunk or on the roof.
Hornblasters.com feel free to put these pics on your website!
damn u got the tank under the hood…haha thats great man…how do u like them??
Ermmmm Why have you coiled the airline??
Having looked at your pics again, have you done this so that you have a greater air capacity?
Can the tank be easily removed for draining the water out?
Nice job getting it all stuffed away outta sight under the hood.
Nice!
Hey one thing - you might want to keep all plastic/wires/airline off of the leader hose & compressor head. It gets real hot. Somebody just posted about burning a hole through his airline.
Props for getting it all in there!
Biggest Larry the Cable guy install Ive seen yet. Gotta be honest with ya in time your gonna have some issues with this install,to make a helping hand situation short reinstall it in tne trunk if you can. Maintanance and life of your horn system will be much greater.I got a 03 civic so I know a little bit.lol but if it works for ya good luck.
ya I am thinking of adding a fan to help cool the compressor during the summer months. The rag and towel under the compressor don’t help to keep it cool but certainly reduce the vibrations between the compressor and the car body.
I haven’t seen any indications that the zip ties or coiled tube are starting to melt. We’ll see how it works out on the hot summer days.
Yea I bought too much tubing and just decided to put it in there for added air capacity.
Yea the tank comes right out for draining.
If I ever upgrade, I’d probably first get a second Viair 400c so recovery is even faster than it is now and then I would think about a larger tank later.
They are awesome! State troopers don’t like them.
Sure wish someone would invent a variable electric air valve so I could vary the airflow to sound more like a train…
Pressure gauges
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Nice install!!
And air regulator
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You mean a graham-white manual air valve? Nope I want an electric air valve that does the same thing. I don’t want to pipe the air lines thru the firewall. It’ll cause less crispy toots due to the longer tubes from the output of the air valve to the horn (tubual expansion and shrinkage).
I have to be honest… I’m glad to see another person with the horns installed… but you will have some problems with them… probably sooner than later. You have the tank basically against the motor… which means you will probably pop your blow off valve all the time with the temperature increase. Not to mention the hoses will probably melt.
How come you didn’t run them in the trunk and attach the horns to the back bumper?
Here is my buddy’s car…
http://www.trainhornforums.com/showpost.php?p=43738&postcount=407
Also, have you thought about trying to put a rheostat on an electric valve? I’ve never needed to try it… but its a good thought…
I’m seeying multiple problems here also…
-Head of compressor against the hose.
-coil of airline unneeded under hood.
-inability to drain tank of moisture.
-towel under the compressor is going to catch fire from the comp. head , or your motor…
On a side note, and you or most people may be asking what makes me think this but… Do you have a window airconditioner in your trunk? I could have swore i saw a video on youtube last night that had the same tank under the hood and battery config… Just a shot in dark, lol
edit, found the video… looks like it is you… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZftgDp15meE
Thats funny that i just saw that last night and here today saw same car… what a small world
LMAO - Man I hope we don’t read about you in the paper!
Seriously… a hole in the trunk lid? for a cooling fan? You could have gone in another direction and vented through the bottom… not to mention, that one cooling fan isn’t going to work… AND you don’t need a power supply to power it… it is a 12v fan. All you had to do is jump off of a keyed fuse. or go to the autopart store and get one of those “Add a fuse” kits. Its a pretty sweet concept and I’m sure its going to get very cold… I wouldn’t use the foam “inserts” to seal it… I would cut a piece of plywood to size… dress it up (paint, carpet, ect…)
Edit…
Also, for the exhaust vent, I would create a 90 degree bend (a hood scoop facing backward) and seal the 3 edges that would touch the trunk above the hole… face it backward… that would create a vacuum when traveling down the highway pulling the air out.
Where is the A/C unit draining to? out of the car I hope.
BTW… do you have a GF? I just have to ask.
@n20charged#1; Yes I have thought about a rheostat. Might be interesting to try but I bet it’ll be very hard to control.
Tubes can handle 190+ fahrenheit no problemo I’m sure. The tube running over my valve cover has no indication of even starting to melt anywhere. Same with coil around compressor The tube going from my compressor to the air filter for it says that it is rated for 190 degrees fahrenheit, and I don’t know if that is D.O.T. approved but the 1/2" line is D.O.T.
Putting the system in the trunk; Didn’t want to drill a hole in the trunk to route air from the trunk to the horns. Also, I like it being all under the hood and not visible at all, it makes the car more epic and I still have a whole trunk!
@06z71silvy:
I’ll fix the position of the tube or compressor so it won’t touch the hose if I can, thanks for the heads up.
Coil of airline is there for more air capacity. Why not use the extra tube I have.
I can drain the tank. I just lift out the tank.
Towel doesn’t have any scorch marks yet! Towel isn’t touching motor but is touching a bit of the transmission…no scorch marks anywhere on the towels.
@n20charged#2;
Yes, one fan WILL do it. It is a Delta AFB1212GHE or very similar. ~240CFM, 120mm, 60db, ~5000RPM. It moves alot of air. But 2 fans I’m sure would be better to equalize temperature between the trunk and the environment.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001
i zaw-zalled the hole thru the top of the trunk because if I ever wanted to sell the car, I’d just get a new trunk at a junk yard and walla, no hole. Also, heat rises.
The AC never is on long enough to start to flood and doesn’t kick up water or leak into the trunk. If it did, I guess a towel would do the trick! Not too concerned.
That 90 degree bend trick is what I have in mind. Right now I have the AC removed because when I am at speed, the air flowing over the car overcomes the fan and so the trunk heats up and eventually the AC compressor stalls. Yes, I can reach behind my seat and switch off the inverter at will so no danger of fire. If there is a fire, I have over a gallon of water in the car.
Yea I could have skipped using the ATX computer power supply but it just works. Don’t want to run another line of wires from the battery to the cabin.
Everyones concerns about melting tubes, zip-ties and towels catching on fire is noted but I know the compressor will shut itself off before it reaches 200 degrees fahrenheit. 180 fahrenheit if I remember right. So I really have no concerns about towels catching on fire but I’ll make sure the compressor isn’t touching the tubes with any force that would cause potential for meltage. Zip ties look to be in good shape so far. Zero scorching of towels. Zero warpage/meltage of tubes. I’ve had 1 day of 85 degree weather so far, with hornage, no problem.
If the temperatures go above 90 degrees fahrenheit where I live, I’ll use my epic Delta fan to cool the compressor.
Those aren’t foam inserts between the AC and the car, they are paper towel rolls! They work well to keep sound down, insulation and keeping the AC unit in position.
I’m not bashing your setup… you choose what you choose to do. period. I am going to say that I think it’s a disaster waiting to happen. I understand that you don’t want to take up trunk space, but having the compressor under the hood like you do is going to burn it up very quickly. I don’t even want to know how you ran the power cable… because if that gets too hot and grounds out, its going to be bad mojo. Your compressor/Air tank are WAY too close to the motor. It looks like there is no room for the motor to have any kind of play when you get on it and its torqued. Granted the motor probably doesn’t have that much torque. But the exhaust pipes go right under the air tank… What happend when the tank is full from the cool morning air and then you add the heat from the engine to it? Its going to expand and pop your blow off valve. If you are running a 150psi setup all it needs is 25psi increase to 175psi. When It is warm out and my tank being under the bed above the exhaust and I’m idling it increases to about 155 - 160… I can’t imagine what it would do under the hood.
On another note… look at how big the fan is behind the air conditioner… pretty big… one 250cfm fan isn’t going to cut it… have you ever put your hand behind an air conditioner? It puts out lots of hot air… more than 250cfm. not to mention you are trying to seal your trunk from the cold air of the A/C if the trunk is sealed, how is it getting more air in when your little fan is pulling the hot air out?
How did you wire in the epic ATX power suppply since you didn’t want to run another power wire to the back of the car? and how do you keep the rain out of the trunk? or do you not care about that?
A gallon of water on an electrical fire = disaster.
BTW, I didn’t see any fuses on that 2/4ga wire, where are the fuses?
n20charged brings up some good points.
I know you didn’t ask for all this advice or even intend to share your A/C mod with us…but we would hate to see something bad happen. These are legit concerns and you might grab a real fire extinguisher at the very least. Not just nitpicking or flamin’ ya.
@n2ocharged, yes I would like to have my compressor last a long time and plan on putting in active cooling for it for the summer at least.
The power cable for the compressor is the supplied wire from hornblasters, with 40A fuse I believe. Also ran a small fuse for the air valve. The wire thickness is fine.
I haven’t shown you the fuse for my 4-gauge wire yet but it is normally before the firewall in the engine compartment.
The air tank is not tight in that space; lots of room for motor movement. The tank is sitting on the car body, it’s not dangling between the car body and the motor.
The exhaust pipe isn’t directly below the tank, and in that area the pipe has heat shields on it.
The compressor is in the corner, as far away from heat sources as possible.
The ATX power supply is just plugged into the inverter, same place as the AirCond. The trunk gets air for the exhaust fan partially from the cabin, I leave a small gap in my insulation.
Electrical fire? Fuses would have blown under the hood or I would shut off the inverter/yanked out fuses myself before pouring water on electrical equipment if I needed to.
Water is fine on electrical equipment as long as they are de-energized (all capacitors are dead). I’d let it thoroughly dry out and inspect before plugging back in (and figuring out how the fire was caused). Well, some stuff like hard drives will get permanently damaged if water gets into it…
Water in the trunk? I (usually) don’t have the fan in the hole when there is a chance of rain, I cover the hole with a airplane maintenance hatch cover thing. Nifty little gadget.
Pictured in this vid from 3:29 to 3:31 or so. It is the circular object that has the air conditioner screws on it. Primed it good with white primer, almost matches my paint job. Primed the heck out of the metal inside the trunk lid to prevent any rusting.
No meaningful amount of water gets in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZftgDp15meE&feature=channel_video_title
Yea i know it wouldn’t be a bad idea to get a small A,B,C extinguisher. The horn system is solid. The AC system is not. For the horn setup, I just need to add cooling to the compressor and it should last a long time.
I don’t have my AC system installed right now, it’s only useful at cruising speeds, and that is only if I manager to fix the exhaust fan versus airflow-over-car issue. The reason why it is only useful at cruising speeds or when parked is because the alternator needs some RPMs to stay cool enough.