stuck on the elctrical install

I have the shocker kit and wants to do a fwe things differently.

First off is i want to add a switch I bought at Autozone that has an led in the middle of it instead of the silver toggle switch it came with. The silver toggle from is a two wire toggle and is simple to set up. the new one has three prongs on the back. I thin kthis holds true for all toggle switches, but can someone explain to me the following


I think
earth = ground
load= 12v or to the device?
supply = 12v or to the device?

Does the switch need to be grounded to the chassis or does it connect to the ground wire on the compressor?

I would liek to add a toggle switch to the compressor to only have it turn on when I want it to come on (via the switch).
how do i do that and do i need a fusable link? do i get this power off a Add-a-Circuit then to a fusable link then to the toggle then to the device?

i wish they had better diagrams. im so lost.

whats worse is i run wire for a living lol

The switch can be grounded to any part of the chassis.

The compressor should only be hooked up to a pressure switch which controls when it turns on and off. Otherwise you run the risk of leaving it on to long and burning it up. And hooked up without w/o a pressure switch voids the warranty.

If you have the shocker kit , it should have come with pretty clear instructions . Do not try and modify them. They are written like they are for a reason / tried and tested.

Do you have a relay? And do you have a pressure switch?

Like Silvy said - you need a pressure switch. But you can still use your toggle switch as a master cut off for the compressor.

I would not run a compressor directly from the fuse panel. A relay is safer. The ‘add-a-circuit’ is great for the trigger wire to the relay. Using an ignition or ‘key-on’ source will keep the compressor from running while the car/truck is off.

Earth = ground
Load = what you’re supplying power to
Supply = your 12V source (battery)

The third contact (ground) of the switch is needed to make the LED come on, as it’s using the supply to get power to light it. I’ve got one from Radio Shack similar to what you’re using that has the same feature.

I agree with the other guys that have posted. Please make sure you have a pressure switch (connects in this order: fuse, in dash switch, pressure switch, compressor; this is simply a relay to turn on/off power to the compressor) and a fused connection. The in dash switch becomes a master on/off, and the fuse (before the in dash switch) if needed, can be pulled to kill power completely.

For my install, I used one of the unused 25A circuits that are “key-on power” then added an in-line 10A rated fuse run to my master switch, then pressure switch, then to the compressor.


it has a pressure switch. the reason things are different is cause I remobed the compressor from the tank to relocate it inside the engine bay rather than under the truck where it would be exposed to the elements.

i found this online

relay by PackFan88, on Flickr

i have a 5 pin relay i ordered from airridefittings and it has a center pin that is confusing me.
you can see in the picture. what type of hook up does it get? same as the picture?

here are pictures of what i have.

this is the add a circuit

IMG_2108 by PackFan88, on Flickr

this i the link fuse

IMG_2110 by PackFan88, on Flickr

here is the switch

IMG_2111 by PackFan88, on Flickr

with the diagram, is there anythign that isnt correct and where would i install the switch to power the compressor on ONLY when i want it on. what i mean is if i am only going to the store down the block and wont be using the horns, i dont want the compressor on for nothing. how do i wire that?

what around a pressure guage to show how much (psi) is in the tank? how si that done in this sequence?

Yes that’s a good diagram - exactly what you need. You will not use the middle pin (87a) on your relay. No big deal.

Trigger wire:
-‘add-a-circuit’ hooks into fuse panel. Use a spot that only has power when the key is on.
-run wire from ‘add-a-circuit’ to supply pin of toggle switch.
-run wire from load pin of toggle switch to either pin on pressure switch.
-run wire from other pin on pressure switch to pin 85 on relay.

The toggle switch will act as a main/master shutoff.

You can/should put a pressure gauge on your tank. Just use an empty port or get a tee fitting.

yeah but there are things Im doing to my set up that arent included in their nitructions. I relocated the tank and compressors instead of having them mounted ontop of one another. I am installing a toggel to prevent the compressor from coming on when i dont plan on using the horns. You know, making it more custom. Only Im not too skilled with automotive wiring. Now residential and commercial wiring is what i do for a living. And i understand horsepower…just not automotive electrical systems since Ive never done squat to one (other than swpa a radio or something).

Your relay will control the compressor from coming on from when the vehicle is not on.
I did install a switch also for my compressor but put it on the line for the remote turn on for the pressure switch. That way if i dont want the compressor to tuen on when the truck starts, i flip the switch and the pressure switch dosent get a signal to turn on since the swtich is off.

I hear you on electrical wiring… I’m learning as i thru the different sections of the site to see how others installed there setups. There is a wealth of knowledge on here regarding installs.

im lost.

does anyone have a few minutes to draw the lines which goes where? everyoen with windows has PAINT. its under the start>programs>accessories>paint

WIRING by PackFan88, on Flickr

Photo is unavailable unless I go to your Flickr page.


Note I changed the pin numbers on the relay. Changed the illuminated toggle for the horn solenoid to a momentary button. (it will not have a ground)

Does that circuit block accept fuses? Could you stick a 40amp fuse right in there?

The fuse on the 4ga should be the smaller of the wire rating (see pic) or the circuit block rating.

Thanks a lot. much better whn i can t see whats going on rather than try and picture it in my head. I have zero experience with this stuff.

I have a question about the toggle for the compressor. When you have it run out to
“positive key source from fuse block” couldnt that be run to position #2 on the 6-port fuse block? I understand it will be able to go on/off whether the key is on or not. Thats a potential hazard to kill the battery if i leave it on, but i wont have that happen. If it MUST be on a keyed fuse, is that where i would use my Add-A-Circuit i bought and showed a pic of on page #1?

You’re welcome. Yes you can attach it to a constant power source…and it sounds like you understand the consequences. haha Mine was like that for a while.

Connect it with the add a circuit to your relay. Even tho you understand the risk of killing your battery, there is also the risk of the compressor running and draining the battery down to a low voltage trying to supply the compressor. This can result in burning up your compressor from lack of power.
It would certainly be a tough lesson to learn to kill your battery and compressor in one mishap.

the new fuse block i have accepts fuses right in it. So on the line where you drew a 40 amp close to circuit block, i can add one right to the new fuse block and be done right?

and when you talk about the switch to blow the horns, youre talking about a button that is not a toggle, more like a push button (like a door bell), correct?

yes it looks like an ATC fuse and they do make 40amp fuses.

and yes just make sure the button is normally open (NO).

It is ‘momentarily’ closed until you release the button…

I posted this a while back… The only thing this drawing is lacking is the ground for the compressor and a fuse between the battery and pressure switch… you have to ground the compressor. This has only the basics… doesn’t have the nicities… such as the remote drain for the tank, the pressure gauge, the high pressure pop valve, etc… The thing on top of the air tank is the pressure valve with a built in relay. All of the wires on that one are prelabeled.

Everything in red is power, everything in black is ground, light blue is air supply.

Horns are up and running. thanks ear2ear and everyone else who elsed. the easiest thing to do was just make that picture and have someone draw the lines. took about 2 hours after i printed that out. That included running all the wires back and forth.

Since my fuse block is whats feeding the toggle switch to fire the horns, what size shoud i put in there? I have a 15 amp now. doesnt seem to be a problem but lmk whatyou guys think.

Also, when it comes to a full tank of air. how long shoudl it take before it runs out? (if at all).

Good to hear that your horns are up and running, how do you like them?

15 amps to power the horns is more than enough… You should only need about a 5 amp fuse to activate the solenoid to allow the air to get to the horns.

As far as laying on the horns and draining the tank, it depends on the tank size really… 5 Gallons will last me about 5 seconds-ish however, I have 3/4" airline running to my Airchimes and 1/2" running to my shockers. (maybe I get less than 5 seconds).

If you are asking about how long it takes to fill the tank, that depends on the compressor(s) you purchased. I have the dual 400c pack and it takes me about 2 minutes-ish (I’ve never really timed it) currently.

You’re welcome - glad you got it done.

The fuse should be no bigger than the wire rating. So as long as that wire is at least 18ga and no longer than 15ft, the 15amp fuse is ok. Otherwise drop down to a 10amp. The solenoid draws less than 5amps anyway.