I bought a 5 gal. tank and didnt realize it had 3/8" ports.Im running 1/2 line.Will I get as much volume going up to 1/2" at the tank or should I send this one back and get one with 1/2" ports?.
Anyone? On another note I installed a manual valve today. Spring loaded ball valve. I’m also going to install a pressure gauge right here.
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Well the rule of thumb for optimum performance for Nathan’s and other genuine locomotive horns is 1/2in or bigger inside diameter.
with that being said…its really up to you. So depending on what your running and what you may want to run in the future, it may be a good idea to swap them out.
3/8" pipe size is not the problem. It’s the fittings. Compare the inside diameter of your 1/2" fitting and your 3/8" fitting. They might both be bigger than the I.D. of your airline. Then it doesn’t matter for sure.
Don’t think I’ve ever seen a spring loaded ball valve.
I don’t think you’ll notice a difference with the port size, if you are worried though just plumb 2 ports together and make sure the “T” is 1/2". I also have never seen a valve like that, any better pics? Also, your setup is kinda like mine was’ with the gauge inline with the valve. In theory that’s a great place for a gauge, but every time the horn blows the gauge goes nuts until your done blowing and the air equals out. Just a FYI ;)
]Guys you dont know how much I appreciate the advice.Ive been contemplating welding a new bung in the tank when it gets here and yada yada.Turns out the id of the 1/2" tubing is less than a 3/8 pipe nipple so that solves my problem.I tend to overthink these things.Tlauden I figured as much with the gauge but I wanted to be able to keep a eye on the pressure to be sure everything is working as it should.I dont think the gauge fluctuating will bother me while the horn is blowing.Id like yall to read over my setup and see if im headed in the right direction.I have shocker xl horns,the ball valve (as mentioned which Ill upload more pics of),a 5 gallon tank.Im thinking of ordering a viair 480c compressor and having a 200psi pressure switch.When I come out of the tank I was going to regulate it down to 150psi.Everything sound ok?I was debating on buying another pressure switch that is 150 psi if you think going to 200 will overwork the compressor.Pics as promised.
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another question I had is why does everyone seem to run a switch to the compressor if it`s controlled by the pressure switch already?
Cause I don’t need my York keeping my tanks at 200psi constantly! hahah
Wasn`t planning on installing one but I guess I can.Do you just put the switch in between the wire coming from your 12 volt source when the key is on and the relay?
DING!
I like running 200psi in the tank when the compressor is rated for it. Then when you regulate down to 150 or less, you get more honk time. Just like any compressor - don’t let it get too hot.
Yes. It’s nice to have a master cutoff switch to the compressor.
Not everyone uses an ignition-controlled power source (and there are good reasons why one might not). Imagine if you didn’t … and you also didn’t have a master control switch … and you parked at an airport for a week while traveling … and a fitting or air line was leaking. In such a case your compressor would come on and off while you were gone – potentially killing your battery and resulting in your return to a non-functional vehicle.
That’s one example of why a master cut-off is nice for those with electric compressors.
Another example is where you want to use up all of your air without having to get out and use a release valve … and you don’t want to fill back up (perhaps because you know you’ll be doing maintenance later in the day or somesuch). Turn off the master switch … and honk.
Got the horns and tank mounted today and all airlines ran. Still need to order that compressor. Oh and they were wrong it had one 1/2"port
After thinking I don’t believe I’ll use a cutoff switch. I really can’t think of a time I wouldn’t want my tank full while the vehicle is running.
Ive got a manual valve but I want to somehow get the handle reversed so that it works by pushing instead of pulling. Then want to mount it to the left of the brake pedal.
To work it with my feet!
This gives me an idea…
Whats yours?
Yeah, I’ve got my manual valve and its the standard PULL type. Just when you think about it, its just a level that pushes down against a ball valve.
So if I could have a level made in reverse, so to speak, so as to push….And have it as a foot pedal?! WOW!!!
might be able to make a push handle in CAD and have it milled out.
^^^ I’ve thought of designing one in CAD and have it jetted out at work. The handle could be a Shocker symbol or something horn related.
iNFamasStalin and ear2ear, if either of you undertake this, please let me see your results.
A foot pedal of sorts would be ideal.
Im not THAT handy but will run it by my handyman buddy.
Thats an idea! I guess we could both give it a shot in making something in CAD. I have some free time that I can throw at this so haha.
We probably should start a new thread on this handle idea rather than flooding this one.