id scrap what you have done and start over. go buy a 30 amp relay. solder all of your connections. The twisting wire like a trashbag tie to make your connections is not par. SOLDER YOUR CONNECTIONS. after you solder your connections then put shrink tube on them to make them water tight and dirt resistant. Do you have any electrical connectors and a crimping tool? buy a cheap kit from walmart for 10 buck. crimp your connections then solder your connections. im surprised it worked at all. good luck bro you need help pm me.
my suggestion is get a relay! even for testing dont use electrical tape (nasa tape ha!) it makes poop worse…lol atleast use wire connectors, if you dont want to solder. Third, buy a cheap multimeter (i got a cheap LCD one from TrueValue for $10) and test to see if all of your wires are getting power. You just gotta test test test till you can isolate the fault.
Dude!!! nice one for making the vid… i’m just about to go to work, so aint got to much time to spend here at moment…but…please tell me you connected the ground from the pressure switch back up? I could not see it connected? the air pressure switch wont work if its not grounded.I’ll have another look at it when i get back from work. have you tried putting it back to the temp wiring again?
wrong. the reason you solder is because even with crimping as wire gets hot it expands and as it cools it shrinks. this over time will loosen your connections and they will fail. buy soldering you eliminate this problem. trust me bro i know what im talking about when it comes to wiring
If you crimp it properly It wont fail. I would even say that the difference in thermal expansion between the solder, copper and terminal will work the wire loose over time. On the UK FSAE team, We talked to MoTec about crimping and soldering and they recommend crimping for the reason that: solder can wick down the wire and cause a vibration failure. You just have to have the right crimping tool. Not the cheap one you buy at walmart.
Think about it; aerospace - no solder, military - no solder, medical - no solder, automotive - no solder. If they used solder on every connection, they would still be building things
I have years of stereo experience, I use the proper tools and crimps for the job, and on all my hard connections i use what was supplied, most expensive amps use a bear wire connection but some still use spade…Never ever had an issue with a crimp other than when I used the cheapo crimps.
Crimp or solder I say…but at the end of the day poor old Tippyfreak still
aint got his system working!!
Tipster? going back to your vid. you said you ran the tank for about five mins, then swapped the wiring back over to the original? Then it stopped working again? Did it blow the fuse or has it just stopped now? did you have the ignition switched on?
OK I have another suggestion. Study this wiring diagram (it says for a K3 installation, But is using the same pressure switch)
Now, check your wiring is the same as this. Then look at the diagram…can you see the white wire coming out of the pressure switch? this goes to feed the compressor… I would put a inline fuse between the white and the red to the compressor, as well as having a fuse on the main feed to the air switch, thus again trying to prove if the compressor is at fault or the wiring.
If the original fuse blows - then there is a short
If the newly fitted fuse on the feed to the compressor blows then its on the compressor…Overload/short.
I talked to hornblasters and they hooked me up!!! I told them about my problems and how its still blowing fuses and they said they’ll just send me a new compressor as long as I send in my old one. My new compressor should be here by next wednesday if all goes as planned So happy!!