So I started my onboard air project today… I know I have a long way to go but it’s a start. Found 3 York 210’s. 2 from Ford F-100’s and one from a 1979 Ford courier. Got all 3 for $60!! I know that’s the easy part though haha. I am going to order the kit from Kilby soon and will do an install thread with plenty of pics and info.
Looking forward to it.
There’s a certain amusement factor as it pertains to putting parts from Fords into a Dodge. 
This is likely the only thing I will ever touch that says Ford. 
Sweet score!!! Wish I had a U-pull-it close to me lol
Space for Rent
Yeah, I was really surprised to see those old trucks sitting there. What’s really cool is that all three compressors work very well. I turned them with my drill and they will pull a serious suction really quick. I just have to save up for the Kilby install kit now. I think it will be worth it in the long run.
Nice find!
Daft question, but how does a belt driven compressor work? What happens when the required air pressure is reached? does the compressor vent it somewhere else:confused:?
It has a 12v clutch just like your car’s A/C compressor. Only difference is that the 12V signal comes from your air tank’s pressure switch. On at 110, off at 145. Here’s a pic of one installed -
Cheers D.C, it’s a clever piece of kit then? I want one now!
The trick is finding a way to stuff it under your hood. Easier said than done. Likely the sole reason that Oasis Mfg. created the electrically driven one. It’s the same exact pump modded to use a DC motor. I will carefully document my install and share what I learn 
That’s right! With new vehicles having less & less room under the hood and Kilby Ent. already installing EDCs, using a DC motor was ingenious. It started from another ingenious invention by the boss, Automatic Tire Deflators for off road.
Dan, I love your company’s design. It really is ingenious. Money is somewhat of an object to me, plus I’m a DIY guy and I love a challenging project. BTW, do
You sell the York modded by itself? I know you add some tighter rings to it, do you do that other mod where you plug the internal hole to keep oil from getting out?
We sell our York for $650 + shipping (+tax only in CA until that changes…:()
Before our pumps were modified we found that venting the crankcase to atmospere reduced oil discharge as much as plugging the internal hole and nothing improved by incorporating both of them. The typical discharge rate is 1 ounce per hour of run time with either mod.
The internal modification isn’t needed with our pumps. The extra oil control ring and internal crankcase breather reduce the typical discharge rate to 1 ounce every 50 hours of run time. That rate increases with heat so we recommend directing air to it and shielding it as much as possible in an engine driven application.
Not bad for a bulletproof pump that will move some serious air. I want to know more about the internal crankcase vent 
1oz/50run-hours?! I’ve done no mods to my York 210L, yet, and was planning to plug the internal hole – expecting 1oz/run-hour. However, your mention of “the extra oil control ring and internal crankcase breather” inline with 1oz/50run-hours has me curious. Am I able to buy these things from Oasis and do the install, myself (and are there instructions)? If not, will Oasis retrofit a customer-supplied York 210L with these for a fee?
I’m all lined up to run an EDC (bracket fab in progress), so I can’t really use an electrically driven pump … but I desperately want the least discharge possible from my York EDC … and 1oz/50run-hours is the lowest York discharge rate I’ve ever read about.
Please advise.
Surreal
P.S. I own a set of your deflators and love them!
99% of returned pump failures are due to a lack of lubrication making them unsuitable for refurbishing so we don’t carry the internal parts. Our cylinder walls are cast iron to handle the extra ring.
We’re the only source for the pump but don’t have EDC instructions. Its bolt pattern is the same and should work with your bracket. Being splash lubricated it must be mounted upright. Choose a clutch and pulley to keep its RPM around 1500 to 1800 or lubrication damage may occur when operated too long above 2000.
Is the pump the same footprint/dimensions as a York 210 … or does it merely share the same bolt pattern? Upright mounting won’t be a problem for me if it has the same footprint, as my bracket’s being made to spec off a York 210 (the engineer has my York, currently, for modeling purposes). As for clutch and pully, I’ve got a 6-groove serpentine clutch, as it’s just going inline with the serp belt (I’m replacing mine with a longer one). I have no idea at what RPM i’ll operate.
I could give you a call at Oasis to discuss, if that’s easier. Just PM me.
The are are 2 differences.
The major one is our oil level sight glass is on the brearing cap (opposite side of the crankshaft) and sticks out about 1/2". In most cases that would be toward the engine and/or mounting bracket making it difficult to see.
The 2nd one is our finned head. It’s taller all the way around the top making the pump’s height 9 1/2". A standard street elbow in its 3/8" NPT female ports adds about 1" for a total height of 10 1/2". The other Yorks are about 9 1/2" tall with elbows.
The pdf dimension drawing of our pump is larger than 19.5 KB so I can’t attach it. PM me with your e-mail or send me an e-mail (my user name here) and I’ll send it to you. I can also send you T/CCI’s regular service manual.
Same Compressor I used for this 
