Wiring compressors through battery protector.

Now I’m redoing my hilux install. I’ve installed 3 x 5 gal tanks, custom brackets based on dbo’s guide. Electric & manual valves, 3/4 ID line ect

Now I HATE driving the lux after a week and I’m down to 150psi and hence it starts then compressors run for a few min.

I’ve just installed a large n70zz battery am I right to permently wire in the compressors so there on 24/7?
I run a pressure switch, and power switch in cab, but it’s switched from ignition.

I will however run a battery protector that guys use so fridges ect don’t drain the batt.

Here is a few pics of the install

Nothing like seeing sparks fly :slight_smile:
Good job mounting the K5 under the front of the Hilux - not a lot of room under there; shame the tops are poking out. Now you’ll just have to be careful about avoiding nose end collisions. Even a minor bingle will mean the radiator is toast!.

As to the electrics… if you have your pressure switch and compressor relay wired through your Accessories power then your compressors won’t start unless you have the key in the ignition and turned to ACC - even if you main power is permanently wired to battery for your compressors. So in that case a battery isolator won’t be of much value.

To make the system live all the time, wire your relays and main power to comps directly to your battery. Many isolators don’t like a lot of current draw so just be careful about picking the right one if you design your system so it’s always live.

If you’re still looking at buying an isolator check out Sidewinder ABR (guy in Brissy), his isolator kits are pretty good value and quality.

DBO, Do you recommend a diode or relay isolator?

If it’s just for a low V trigger (e.g. to another relay) you could go a diode - caveat to that is to ensure your voltage drop isn’t going to be enough to affect the trigger function of the circuit.

Most automotive isolators are all relay types - and for good reason. Firstly they handle more amperage draw and secondly they don’t incur the voltage issue mentioned above. The only drawback IMO with relay isolators (especially the cheaper kind) is relay chatter when you get supply V varying or being close to the cutout V.

Yea mate the horns are mounted to 60x12mm flat alloy tapped with fittings. There is 12mm gap from back of fittings to my air con condenser so car will still be drivable. The ute is fully insured with Shannon’s with $3000 worth of accessories including k5la air horns, onboard air, rims. So they would be covered.

The car is quite low so it’s actually not that noticeable and the horns are quite dull. A chrome sr5 front will be going on sooner or later its sitting at home waiting for me to finalise the install.

Also im fully aware of it wont be on unless Acc is on but let’s say I reconfigure it to go through a battery protector. Not a dual battery solenoid.

It pretty much are are used in single battery installs so the load won’t train the battery.
We use them at work on the ford rangers as the ciggy ports are on 24/7 and a fridge will drain it over night.

Hope that makes a bit more sense.

Yea in theory I should have no Leaks and the compressors could kick in anytime when no one is near car or at night. But it means I wills always have 165psi+ in the tank. Long as battery holds up.

One of these. Just to power the 12v trigger wire on the pressure switch relay which is currently connected to acc

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Projecta-ODP500-Battery-Discharge-Protector-/111641086888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19fe53cba8

Yeah that’ll do the trick nicely for powering the relay coil(i.e trigger) no worries

[Edit] Actually… hmm. I might change my mind on that, because I just re-read your original post and noted you’ve got 15 gallons to fill, so I’m guessing you’re running at least 2 compressors? . Theoretically yes the above gizmo will do, but the disconnect Voltage is 11.6V. Depending on the surge draw for the compressors, if you have compressor running just on ACC (engine off) you may find that you get the disconnect kicking in purely based on the load that the compressors will generate (i.e. they might dip the battery voltage below that 11.6V as they’re starting or running under high pressure). Not sure how quickly that cutout can flip-flop - reconnect is at 12.5 apparently, so that gives you less than one Volt difference if your battery happens to be near that range. You don’t want your compressors coming on and off rapidly!

2 x 444c viairs I’ll hook it up and see what it drops down to using a multimeter. Wonder if I can hook a decent capacitor up to help stabilise the voltage.

Am seriously thinking of making a sit 12v oasis compressor out of a such motor or what ever I can find.

Love the horns mounted behind the bumper!