York 210 - Oil level question -- experienced opinions wanted

Now that my custom bracket is finished and the York 210L is mounted in the truck, I’ll be firing it up in a week or so after I connect it to the air system and install a longer serpentine belt. However, I have a question on the oil level I should maintain (in order to help reduce oil discharge).

As some background for the question (which will follow):
[li]I know that the typical oil fill level for a York 210 is 8-12oz of oil[/li][li]I will be using non-detergent 30 weight oil[/li][li]I’ve already made the obligatory internal oil passage mod (per jedi.com’s instructions – i.e. tapped the oil passage and plugged it with a Loctite’d set screw) in order to help reduce oil discharge.[/li][li]I’ve read that venting the crank case makes little to no difference after the oil passage mod is done.[/li][li]A Coilhose Pneumatics coalescing filter (with site glass, metal bowl, bowl-mounted ball valve, and drain tube off the ball valve) will be the first thing connected to the York 210L – by way of Teflon hose protected by braided stainless steel[/li][li]I deliberately avoided recycling the coalesced oil (a la the Kilby kit) because I understand that water vapor is part of what will be coalesced by the coalescing filter and I didn’t like the idea of piping an oil/water mixture back into the compressor as a ‘lubricant’.[/li][li]The output side of the coalescing filter has a Load Genie combination check/unloader valve[/li][li]I have read about people who had Coalescing filters also starving their Yorks by using as little as 1oz of oil in order to reduce oil discharge to acceptable levels.[/li][/ul]Question
Right now I have 4oz of non-detergent 30 weight oil in my 210 – and I’m wondering if, with the setup noted, above, I should go to 8oz … or if I should keep the oil level light?

1oz seemed extremely low for a system I intend to use with a 165/200 on/off pressure switch – as I expect a lot of work (and, thus, heat from friction) from my York 210 when the system is close to 200psi. On the flip side, I worry at an 8oz fill level the 210 will piss unacceptable levels of oil into the air system despite the internal oil passage mod and the coalescing filter.

The last thing I want is an air system gummed up with oil, so I’m trying to get this right from the start. I’d love some insight from those who have already gone through this kind of exercise.

Please advise and thank you in advance,

P.S. I’ve taken lots of pics along the way and will pull together a pic thread once I’m finally done with the system. I learned not to do so, mid-stream, as it took 3 different plumbing rounds to get the system plumbed and leak-checked to my satisfaction – and now I may need to play with belt tension, the possible addition of a new idler pulley that isn’t currently in the mix, etc. :slight_smile:

im gunna be honest…dont worry your oven off about it Haha. just fill it and forget about it.

As of now, I upgraded to dual yorks. To my surprise a single york doesn’t put out that much oil. And there bone stock besides a crank case vent.

Im also running dual oil filters. The first one is a cheap’o filter which will have blow by. Reason I know that cause when I first started with a single york and that filter I was draining oil from my tanks. Then I bought a $200 Dominic-Hunter filter and nothing got by it with my single york. With my duals, like I said I run both those filters and so far its all good.

I recycle my oil. To me its no big deal.

And I fill my york up to 14oz, but keep in mind I dont run them to often. My tanks dont leak so… and i dont honk alot…

Stick with the recommended 8 - 12 oz. Overfilling definitely increases the discharge rate and can hinder piston operation.

I don’t know about Dominic-Hunter filters but most coalescing filters won’t capture as much moisture being that close to the compressor. The heat from the compressor makes moisture extremely agitated, small, and difficult for the filter to capture. Moving the fitler downstream allows the air to cool and be captured.

You might have taken me a bit too literally. I’ve got about 2 feet of the braided SS-covered Teflon hose b/w the compressor and the coalescing filter. It’s run just behind my radiator hose and benefits from airflow through the grille when moving (or when my efans are on). :slight_smile:

Consensus seems to be 8-12oz. So the next logical question is:
Has anyone found a good means of storing/transporting oil in a sealed container that’s easy to use to reliably measure 1/4oz, 1/2oz, or 1oz at a time?

I’m on a hunt for a petroleum-safe squeeze bottle with measurements, it seems. :slight_smile:

Are you planning to keep some oil with you in the car? And what exactly will this air system be serving?

How 'bout one of those bottles that 2-cycle engine oil or Sta-bil comes in?

Damn good idea – and I happen to have a nearly-empty bottle just like that. The only catch is finding a way to get the measured oil into the York with ease. A syringe to go with this could be the ticket!

The application is a lifted 2004 GMC Sierra extended cab, long bed truck with a truck box where I store all sorts of things in Boy Scout-like fashion. Extra oil, tranny fluid, PS fluid, brake fluid, and coolant are already among what’s in the truck box, along with an empty 5 gallon gas can for either water or gas, in a pinch. Stashing a bottle of ND-30W is prudent and will be done.

The reason I’m zealous about this is that I live in the country and it’s not uncommon for me to have the truck in the woods, in a farm field, on a logging road, etc. – where there’s no one but me to help out in a pinch. I’m also fed up with loading and unloading a petrol-driven compressor (that must be protected from theft, the elements, etc.) as well as lugging fuel for it.

The compressor and 200 psi air system (with 5gal) will run air tools; there’s a universal quick disconnect already located at the front of the truck by the winch … as well as another at the rear of the truck. Airing tires and blowing horns are both nice-to-have features, but the real purpose is running air tools (nailers, saws, cut-off wheels, ratchets, etc.) in remote locations where something needs to be built or demolished and there’s no power.

While oil might seem good for the air tool scenario, I want the system to be as oil-free as possible specifically for the nice-to-haves. I have a regulator and tool oiler on a whip laid out for QD interface use with tools – for plugging into air systems when using my air tools. Obviously I choose the lowest CFM air tools I can (and often pay for it) … and 6 or less CFM at 90psi is fine for pretty much everything I use in the field.

well then that all makes perfect sense now.

Since you will be running it like a shop compressor, have you thought about overheating?

Does anyone even know the max temperature for a york?

I have, indeed, considered heat. Unfortunately York specifications found here (http://www.worldaire.com/pdf/WorldaireCCI-YorkCompressors.pdf) don’t seem to cover the topic.

The best I could do on my own was to place this temp strip on the side of my York. It’s not perfect but it’s better than nothing…

I’ll keep an eye on temp to see if further action is needed. If she caps out at 248 degrees then my plan is to get my 10,000 CFM efans involved – by tapping the probe wires and adding a second probe strategically placed on the York. (Current probe temp is set to bring the efans on at 195F.)

The maximum temperature of our modified York 210 is 350 F at the finned head. It can get that hot after a 20 minute continuous run @ 150 psi when the ambient temperature is around 80 F.

Thanks, Dan. Great info. I’m not expecting 20 solid minutes of runtime in most cases (and for a 200psi system I’m sure heat develops a bit more rapidly). Worst case scenarios would be using a saw or cut-off wheel where I might see extended run times, but even those are burst-use tools for my needs and a 20 minute stint is unlikely.

Oh, and I ordered one of these to go with the Sta-Bil bottle. :slight_smile:

New serpentine belt sizing and installation went well, as did alignment. I’ve got zero slippage at or near 200psi and am pleased about it.

However, I’ve got an unexpected situation to resolve – I’m getting heavy vibration at certain RPM’s … only when the compressor clutch is engaged. When the clutch is not engaged everything’s smooth as silk, but when it engages, there are times when the compressor shakes violently. I did some research and what I found suggests this is caused by the internal vibrations and harmonics of the York doing its thing, as it’s a crude compressor compared to, say, one that uses a worm drive.

I’m considering additional support for the 210, as a diagram from a 1979 ford truck shows support through two bolts on the left (via a bracket), three on the bottom via a second bracket, and a single bolt to the right hand side of the unit that is a tubular brace. This suggests she needs a LOT of support – perhaps more than I’m providing. I know I can’t operate the unit like this for any real length of time, so I’ve got to find a fix.

Before I go trying to figure out where the heck I can provide additional support for the York (I’ve got practically no space to work with … and am struggling to find places to bolt to, as-is), does anyone know if it could it be something else? Suggestions would be deeply appreciated…


P.S. The syringe I ordered was terrible for filling the York. A hand bulb ear syringe turned out to be the best tool for the job of adding oil.

my theory is since the york will vibrate at its own frequency, vastly different that the engine, and when they combine it will change the overall frequency or cause it to vibrate like something off balance… i guess

that of coarse assuming its bolted on firmly and that nothing is wrong with the clutch.

The pulley looks good and the clutch action is smooth, so I don’t think either is the issue. My bracket is aluminum, not steel, and it’s bolted on to the engine (and the compressor to it) VERY securely. I suspect a resonance through the aluminum that might not happen with steel.

A little bit of spring in the bracket material is not a bad thing – and might actually be a good thing when adding a frame brace, as it’ll allow give/play for either engine or compressor movement. So, before fabbing a new bracket out of steel I’m going to try to brace the compressor to the frame with a turnbuckle. This will also allow me to control the amount of force that’s applied – which ultimately gives me control of how much play will be allowed in the bracket.

I’ll try to pick up a stainless turnbuckle, today, and will see how it goes across the next week or so.

Just a thought - I wouldn’t brace an accessory to the frame of the truck.
The whole engine moves under torque.

Do all of your bracing back to the engine block or head or other accessory brackets etc…

Superb point – one I could kick myself for overlooking and one I’m glad you raised. I went at it, today, and after locating a workable brace point on the engine, I fabbed up a pair of brackets (one for the engine and one for the bottom of the York) that’ll allow me to use a turnbuckle to (hopefully) keep the York still.

The first coat of bracket paint is drying overnight. I’ll test fit everything in the morning, and, if all is well, I’ll hit the brackets with another few coats of paint, give them 24-48 hours of drying time, then install everything for real, again, on Monday or Tuesday.

If the problem still isn’t resolved then I’ll shift from using an aluminum bracket for the York to using a steel bracket and see if it makes a difference.

I couldn’t wait 12-24 hours, so I got everything installed this evening and everything’s functioning A-OK.

I’m going to pull the compressor and bracket back out of the truck tomorrow night so that I can reinforce a weld on Tuesday … after which I should be able to call the project complete once it’s all back in the truck.

I’ll begin putting together a photo album after that. :wink:

Only then will your project be complete:D

Glad you got it going!

Blew another air line in the engine compartment on a long trek, today. That’s the second time with this poly tubing, despite it being wrapped in a radiant heat-reflective mylar sleeve this time around. Heat’s clearly a problem near 200psi … but wasn’t at 125ish psi.

It seems I’m going to have to replumb … for the 4th time. I’m busily searching for new tubing and think I’ve found my next material to try: http://www.zorotools.com/g/00057443/k-NBR-8-062-0050/. This 1/2" Parker nylon tubing has higher working, burst, and temperature thresholds than the 1/2" SMC nylon tubing on Hornblasters’ site … and is about the cheapest shipped-to-my-door price I can find for that manufacturer number. I’ll probably order it, tomorrow, unless someone can suggest a superior product at a parallel price point for the material capabilities of the product.

If after I get the new tubing installed it fails, too, then I’m removing all of my push-to-connect fittings, replacing them with flare fittings, and moving to braided stainless steel over PTFE tubing connected via flare fittings … so that I can be done with it once and for all. I won’t like the ugly hit that’ll make to my wallet, but I’ll have had enough, by then and already know the capabilities of that kind of tubing, as I use it in three key areas already. (Spendy friggen stuff. Ouch.)

i went with oil rated hose from McMastercarr. No problems with it. All the nylon type hoses i use burst.