Advanced Install Questions


Thank you guys in advance for any advice you may offer.

What I’m working on is a replacement of my current setup. I have an “older” Hornblasters Shocker type kit on my sub compact sedan:

^Since this picture I’ve replaced the 375c compressor with a 400c piece.

^This is an old picture of the original setup. I’ve since moved the horns and removed some unnecessary panels from the car to allow a more direct air line fitment.

What my goal now is to replace this four horn setup with a Nathan K3LA. What I’m looking at is purchasing the raw K3LA horn set. Realtrainhorns sells a relocation kit for the K3, I was going to pick that up. I was going to then purchase a bigger electric relay operated valve…then a tank.

Now, not knowing too much about the K3LA, What should I be purchasing in the way of a tank & electric valve?

My thought was to purchase a 5 gallon tank like this:

^This should fit in between my rear wheel wells. I can probably use the 150 check valve that I have wired in to the compressor by using adaptor fittings into the 1/2" ports on the tank. I’m not concerned about fill time at this point.

Running the lines up to the valve is simple. But then…what valve? I was thinking that the tank has the 1/2" ports so…1/2" line out to the valve?

Then from the valve to the mounting kit. The issue I’m having is that I’m not receiving any communication from the website to answer any questions about the relocation kit…which isn’t a good sign.

My goal is to replace the 4 horns with the REAL horns and make this the loudest Toyota Yaris horn that anyone will ever hear. I currently have the kit wired onto the stock horn. I use the current horn only when absolutely needed…in an emergency or a demo. It truly is loud…BUT…I know I can get louder…

Thoughts? Advice?

5 gallons should be fine. As far as electric valve stay with 1/2 inch minimum. And you would definitely want the relocation kit for the horns so you can fit then in there. The setup looks good take lots of pics for us :smiley:

^^ Agree w/ Bryan.

Keep in mind that water will collect in the tank.
When planning your new setup, try to orient the tank so you have a drain port at the bottom. And also no other ports at the bottom.

Your current setup has the pressure switch at the bottom and no doubt has nasty/rusty water sitting on it. Although it may have lasted fine that way until now, it’s not recommended.

The tank you linked is nice looking, but I don’t like all the ports on one side for reasons stated above. A gauge is nice to have too.

Welcome to the forums.

Thank you for the advice on the release valve and the pressure switch. I’ll definitely keep that in mind for this project.

If you guys have any specific parts in mind that might fit this project, please let me know.

Keep everything to 1/2" line with the Airchime. If you have trouble buying the mounting kit, consider making some yourself if you have some basic tools at hand, it’s not that difficult. I wrote up a how-to a while back when I made mine (see here)

Confirm your dimensions on the Airchime bells. I’d be very surprised if you find room I front of the radiator like what you had with the Shockers. The 1 bell in particular is one big beast.

I completely understand the concern…

I envision that if I can angle the power chamber/diaphragm section of the horn up through the space in between the crash bar and the radiator, I’ll be home free. The length isn’t an issue on the big horn as it is shorter than the larger piece. If the smallest horn is too wide at the source of the throat I’ll fab something up to change the placement…

Am I reading that the power chamber is around 6" or 7" on the horns?

The real challenge will be if I cannot make the angle up in between the crash bar and the radiator. Ooooh! I keep forgetting…notice the initial layout picture on the front picture…the plastic piece off to the left side (as you’re looking at it) has been removed and is completely open. I can make the initial angle up through there and then “slide” the horns down through the proverbial slot into the placing I want.

This is probably the only good thing about having a wholly underpowered engine aside from the awesome gas mileage. It doesn’t need a massive radiator! happy dance

Oh boy… This so reminds me of when I changed from the Shockers to a K3. I had the same kind of cross member in front of the radiator to contend with. Let’s just say there was lots of cussing & cursing along with busted knuckles etc… Oh well, in the end I got 'em wedged in there, so I truly hope you’ve got the same success. The difficulty in getting it past that cross member will be the flare of the horn. It just limits the angle you can take when feeding it in there.

Keep a nice sturdy flat piece of cardboard handy and tape it to the front of the radiator so you don’t do any damage to the cooling fins.

It looks like the bumper frame piece comes off with 6 bolts. Don’t be skurd!

That is some great advice.

Skurd he says! Ha! I only pee myself on select situations…

I certainly don’t recall being able to remove the crash bar…although it’s been over a year since I’ve taken the front of the car off. I’ll make sure to make a little primer for this. I’ll have at least one other pair of hands and a shop to do this in.

One of my good friends owns a sound shop not too far from me. I’ve negotiated his labor in helping me redo my competition sound system and installation of the Nathan K-3 for my old setup. He wants to put it on his Ranger.

In the increasing tank size I have to redo that backboard you see there in the first picture. That’s the easy part. The challenge is going to be re-working the tray under where all that’s going to be, adding lighting, finding a spot for the processor and replacing the amps I used to have while making it presentable for audio competition.

The fun part however is definitely that horn. I have it worked into my aftermarket and OEM alarm. During part of the audio competition they have you demonstrate the alarm to make sure it works. He he he… No doubt that’s my favorite part. Last year I scared the hell out of the judge.

The biggest challenge over even the build in the back is re working my a-pillars for different speakers. It’s always fun to place a 4" driver up in pillars…then tuning it all. Many hours of tweaking after the install.

This is the air management kit we send with all of our Nathan AirChime horn kits.

Here also is a valve kit. This is the line and valves we send with these.

I actually already purchased a 400c from you guys a couple months ago. It fits the current tank beautifully.

I’d be foolish to buy a whole new compressor just to fit the 1/2" tank opening. I was thinking of an adaptor plug instead. I’ll probably buy he new tank and valve from HB and the relocation kit from RTH.

I’ve a business relatively close to me where I can get air lines and fittings so as to not have to pay shipping.

Sounds good! So you know, we do also have relocation kits. If the price is better with RTH then right on!

I just placed an order for a tank and a valve with a couple hours ago.

The only gripe I have is the shipping…that valve could easily fit into the same box that you ship the tank in…The shipping on the valve was outrageous. Aside from that, I never found anything on the HB site that resembled a relocation kit.

I digress, I’m looking forward to receiving all of this.

Most likely, the valve will go into the box with the tank. The shipping was probably everything combined as it goes by weight and where you are located. We are in Florida. I can’t see a name so I am unable to look up your order. If you would like to private message me, I can look into it.


PM sent your way.

Can you throw me the link to the page for the relocation kit? I still haven’t been able to find it on your site. I’d like to compare products (even though I’ve already ordered from RTH).

PM responded :wink:

Here’s the link!

^^^ Angie I think we’re talking about a K3 individual bracket kit…

Sounds like he’s looking into both a relocation kit and the bracket kit? I may have gotten confused by the term “relocation kit” :confused:

You’re right he’s calling it a relocation kit.
In his first post he has a link to the RTH bracket kit…calling it a relocation kit.