Ok here’s the electrical panel. Nothing is tightened.
The main power and ground will connect to the empty 1/0 terminals.
The compressors will connect to the empty red and black terminals.
The trigger wire will connect to an empty terminal on the left of the yellow wires.
My truck bed lights will connect to an empty terminal on the left of the power lug. (separate fuse)
The flash kind of blew this one out.
Another angle…it’s pretty busy.
I’m going to reroute the yellow trigger wires so they’re not kinked so bad.
i want to thank you for the link and the part number for the proper part i needed. I got them delivered the other day and the place is very fair priced and shippign is nice too. Turns out they are located or have a warehouse here in NJ so its a quick ship.
Thanks for the comments guys.
I made a little progress this weekend. There’s a lot coming together at once and things have slowed way down. I drilled the bed for the tank though.
We got nut bars! The bed will be sandwiched between them and the tank legs.
I didn’t just do it for my health… There is no way to put a regular nut on the bolts closest to the front of the bed. There’s a channel going across there.
Nice job ! I wanted to go to A large tank in my Silverado but opted for multiple tanks instead with two OB2s. I need all of my space in the bed at times so my 2 5 gallon tanks in the bed can be removed in about 4 minutes.
FWIW, I used right angle fitting with DOT hose connected to small ball valves for my tank drains as I had small leaks after A while with the twist valve type. It was inexpensive and the ball valves never leak.
Once again, Nice work ! Rex…
It’s for pressure testing the tank with water. A dummy cylinder with a port bolts into the frame. I will plumb it to the tank. Then a big chunk of threaded rod fits into the frame to jack against the rod/piston. I need 300# of force to create the 400psi test pressure.
As of tonight it’s done (the tester). I’ll upload some pics tomorrow, so hopefully it’ll be more clear.
Left- Pipe is bored with a 1" precision reamer. 1/2" NPT port left over from tank - all welded to plate.
Middle - Piston/Rod is .999" shafting with groove for a Nathan O-ring (sweet irony!).
Right - 1" Jack screw w/ alignment cup.
The cylinder bolts into the frame, then the piston goes in, then the jack bears against it.
Should be as easy as turning the 1" nut. That’s an Air Zenith leader hose…lol
I didn’t do A thread on my install. I built my system A little at A time before I knew that Hornblasters sold the kits. It was first A cheap chrome truck kit, Then I got stuck at A railroad Xing and when the amtrak came by and blew his horns I had to have that so I purchased A K3la and mounted it under the truck, then I bought the 3a and 5 bells and made A rear manifold and connected A DOT hose from the K3 to the manifold I made for the 3a and 5 bells and finally got what I was looking for. Approx 5 months ago I removed the cheap chrome horns that were in front of the Right rear tire replaced them with Nathan P3s that face rearward. On Monday the 26th 2 days ago I installed the second Zenith OB2 on my frame rail where the Viair 380 used to be. I loved my little 380 but I have 14 gallons of air and the zeniths pump it all up from 165 to 200 in 1 min and 33 seconds. Eventually I will own a oasis and will have to redo it all again. Sorry E2E I didn’t mean to Jack your build thread. Rex…
The braided leader hose gets plumbed to the tank. Then the whole thing - tank, hose, and test cylinder - gets filled with water. Then jacking against the piston/rod (just like you see in the pic) will pressurize the water.
The test cylinder is just a super beefy compressor without a motor. 1" bore x 8" stroke
