E2E's new air setup

I am basically a manufacturing engineer without a degree. Call me a designer or drafter if you want to be technical. We make food processing equipment.

How about 4 - 80amp relays? lol
The AZ relays are rated for 80amps and two compressors can draw 70amps. Combining them can create a fusing nightmare. When done individually, I can just put a 50amp fuse before each relay to protect it and the 10ga compressor wire.

Maybe a single 150-200amp solenoid would have simplified it, but that’s just more money.

How are you getting power to the relays? MDF with 2/0 style?

-Kris

I don’t know much about MDFs. This is really just a custom fused D-Block with some connection posts. In one of the pics above it’s the triangular piece of 1/2" aluminum. It has a square hole for a 3/8" carriage bolt to connect a 1/0 lug.

Wire is knukonceptz 1/0 kolossus fleks. It’s only carrying 140 amps - less than 10ft. There will be a 200amp fuse right off the rear battery.

We’ve had crappy weather all weekend, or else I’d be out there right now.

… excuses excuses…

looks great !!

Where did you get the parts that were welded into the tank to connect the drain cock, the fittings, ect ect ect. I am looking into relocating my drain cock and have no idea where to start.

I have a kit from HB.com, and the drain is not going to work in the position its in cause putting it under the truck bed it needs to be on its side.

any help on where to get a new one? what about a blank or or a cap for the “old” drain hole?
any clue as to who I can look to in order to have the new drain welded in?

Mcmaster Carr has everything. I also used a local supplier for some of it.
The ports are 3000# half couplings. You can use a plug for the empty port.
I would not weld on a tank without testing it though.

I’m ordering a gauge this week from mcmaster for testing my tank.

Twist - maybe I’ll get a picture tomorrow of the steel for the test rig…

i see them listed on this page…

I am not exactly sure how to read the dimensions since Ive never ordered anything like this before.
I dont own a micrometer to measure the threads on the existign drain cock on the tank i have …its the tank iout of this kit

says Viair 5 port 2 Gallon tank but I dont see anythign saying what size the drain is. Says 1/4" drain cock but thats the size of the drain area while the hole diamter is larger. I assume 1/2"

So if i wanted to order the 1/2" can you clue me in to as to what the part number is for the item I need? I assume the Viaair tank is steel.

I was also wondering, what type of line do you plan on using to get from the compressor(s) to the tank and then from the tank to the horns?

The drain is 1/4" NPT. That’s the fitting / thread designation. If you measure the outside of the threads, it’s real close to 1/2". The link you posted just takes you to their site. I just bought a 4921k31 drain cock. Steel tank? The half coupling you want is a 4513k71. Again, you’ll want to pressure test when done. It is not common practice to modify an air tank.

I haven’t bought anything yet for the airlines to and from the tank. Probably all custom crimped hoses with AN fittings.

Here ya go Twist…

…a boring picture of the steel for the test frame.

Basically I’m making a dummy hydraulic cylinder to fit in the c-channel frame. Then use some large threaded rod as a jack to create the pressure.

The area of the piston is .785 sq in, so 315 pounds of force should get me 400psi

And here i thought pressure testing was hooking up the tank to a high pressure air line and keep building pressure until it POPS! lol

Well that’s one way to do it, but a little hazardous to your health!

just a little?

E2E! very impressed with your metal skills and electrical! wheres the latest update?! =)

what exactly is pressure testing then?

and changing the port location isnt common place? your set up is awesome, with your skills and tools at your disposale and the help you can get from work is perfect. its gonna be top notch!

Ya just a little! Nothing like standing next to a bomb…

Thanks…ummm about an hour ago. lol

Basically you need to be sure that the tank will hold a good bit more pressure than your safety valve. But testing with air is dangerous. Since it compresses, it stores a LOT of energy. If something went wrong, you could have an explosion. The safe method is with water. It does not compress so if something fails, it does so slowly and the water just squirts/drips out.

Welcome to the forum!

thanks!! i just found this site, i loooove my horns! lol glad to see im not the only one =)

Hope your alternator can handle 140 amps from those compressors! Great work on the tank, it takes a lot of knowledge to do that metal work. I’m a computer guy so I wouldn’t know the first thing about making an air tank like that.

Why didn’t you just get a Firestone 9277 19 gallon tank? Too long, too tall?

My stock alternator and battery are completely separate. I have a second 230amp alternator with 2 Kinetik 1800 batteries.

Yeah, the tank had to be long and skinny to fit under my tonneau cannister - and not stick out too far.