factory horn button

I noticed that someone submitted a question about how to wire a toggle switch to the factory horn button so that they could use either the stock horn or the train horn. Does anyone here know how to wire it so that it is possible to use stock horn, train horn, or both horns? I would like to have that capability if at all possible. Thanks!

Me too. Thanks for asking it.

I hooked it up so it was train horn and regular horn or just regular horn. I dont think there is a way for all 3 unless you add another toggle. But for the first option, what I did was I found the factory horns and spliced into 1 of them. (there should be 2 so its all good) and then added a toggle switch and ran it back to the solenoid. that way when the toggle switch is on, and you honk the regular horn button on your steering wheel, the train horns and factory horn will go off. and when the toggle is down just the factory horn goes off.

I had it like that to start, but the factory horn going off with the train horn sounded a lil funny. You could still hear the factory horn with the horns and I didnt like that as much. so i changed it.

There is a way to do it. If you can find out how he did it.

http://www.hornblasters.com/video.php?pic=46

you could probably splice the solenoid wire and run another toggle through it to the battery. Thats probably what he did.

the hot wire needs to be to the center prong on the switch. using that schematic u will be using the stock horn OR the train horns.

that is a hot to the center prong… but this is one horn at a time… its pointless to have both at once.

I think I’m prolly gonna do this here in the near future. Doesn’t seem too hard either.

my bad i misread it.:rolleyes:

Thanks

One thing to keep in mind: The factory horn is a critical safety device. Tampering with it could lead to injury or death if it failed to sound in a road emergency. Routing it through additional switches or fuses could lead to no horn sounding at all just when you need it most. This is why I hooked up my train horn to sound in addition to the factory horn. I can turn the train horn on or off but the factory horn is always on. Most train horns are so loud that the small incremental sound of the factory horn shouldn’t even be noticeable anyway. If you can still hear your factory horn over your train horn then you probably need a better train horn, and you would probably want the extra volume provided by the factory horn anyway. When connecting your train horn switch it is best to only tap the factory horn wires and not cut or re-route them. You wouldn’t want to be in a wreck and have someone get hurt or die because your switch was in the wrong place, a fuse blew, or a wire came loose. And if something bad did happen then you could be held liable in court for failing to warn of your approach. Just my $0.02 worth.

Friik!!! Any easy ways to identify the stock horn wire?? I don’t wanna cut the airbag wire!!

if the airbag goes poof you cut the wrong one … lmao

not sure why no one ever wants to just mount a seperate button… i used a 2 way momentary toggle switch

that way my stock horn was still the way it was and then the toggle you pull up for the big horn and down for the psychoblasters…

find the horn. cut the wire going to the horn… that easy lol

I have 3 switchs. all the horns are wiring into the stock horn. 1st switch is on/off for the shockers, second is on/off for the pshycoblasters, third is on/off for the compressor. that way i can honk my stock horn, shockers, and/or pshyco’s in any combination or all together.

Actually its not that easy. Like I had two horns. One was malfunctioned and the other one was hidden by my radiator. Lol I’m taking it to a car installation shop tmrw. It was the weirdest thing…

I wanted my train horn connected to the factory horn button so that in an emergency I would have one or both horns go off just by pressing one switch. When you are rapidly approaching an accident or a dangerous scene things happen very fast and you aren’t going to have time to think about a separate switch, especially those concealed nuclear-arms type switches which require you to lift up a protective cover. They look cool but they aren’t very practical and they also scream out “train horn” to any inquiring police officers.

In my installation I do use a separate switch to flip the train horn on or off but the factory horn is always on. And I didn’t cut any factory wires. I just used a tap connector to tap the +12V line going to the factory horn, ran this tapped line to my train horn switch, then down to the horn solenoid. Works like a dream and no risk of the factory horn not working. The train horn switch matches my other factory switches so it blends right in and looks like a factory option.

I found the easiest place to tap into the factory horn wire was at one of the horns which are mounted in the center of the front grill. I just ran the tap wire through the same loom as the factory horn wire and took it in through the firewall to my dash so you can’t even see any special wiring when inspecting under the hood.

thats exactly how i have mine set up. no matter which air horns i use the stock horn still honks