Finally started the install, a little worried...

Ok, so Im still an uber noob and started laying out my tank. I wanted to see if anyone who knows alot about the horns would object to this layout of the tank and compressor…and also I wanted to know about the hb 150 pressure switch (the blue box) if i may need another one of those. I was threading it into one of the ports on the top of the tank and wasn’t paying attention and turned it one time too many by the box and not the bolt and it spun on the fitting. Is this potentially a hazard and now I need a replacement? Im sorry if it seems a little unorganized…Im trying to watch my son, work on the truck and cook at the same time lol…

I wouldnt think you would need a new one. Just try it out and see if it works. Do you have a canopy? If you do not and all that is out in the open, you might want to consider covering at least the compressor up and keeping it in a dry area. By the way, what horns will you be using with your setup? Looks great so far!

You also might want to put that drain cock on the bottom of the tank so you can drain the water out occasionally

Yea, the drain cock (thing to the right of the pressure gauge) should go on the bottom.

I forgot to mention that I moved it since those photos…I didn’t think about it til after. Also I have a tonneau cover so it will all be out of the weather. Also I noticed that the drain cock valve seems awfully tight to turn, that seem normal? It didn’t want to turn either way.

This happens to be what the rest of the truck looks like LOL

Yeah man make sure you turn that drain valve the correct way. The one I got from HB was super tight too and I ended up twisting the damn knob right off it. At least I planned to replace it with a solenoid valve so I can empty the tank remotely with a push button installed in the cab.

PS. Sweet ride!

^^^me too - twisted it right off.
I’m in need of a new petcock…lol

yea, the designs of those is crap

ok, so mine is broken as well…I’m having trouble planning on my mounting for the horns, I initially wanted to make brackets but am short on funds due to a layoff so now im thinking of a temporary solution of heavy duty tiewraps till I can make some proper brackets.

Now for my activation, Im thinking I just want a basic toggle switch to turn on the compressor since I don’t want to overload any existing circuitry by exceeding 26 amps… Should I just tap from the battery with a inline fuse, hit the switch and come off to the compressor? and just use a momentary switch as planned or would it really be more feasible to do the extra legwork and try to find a higher amp circuit for the compressor? This install is taking me MUCH longer than i had anticipated as I don’t want it to look like oven, and so far, im not very happy with my results due to time and financial constraints…Im sure once I toot for happiness that will change.

Damn yours broke too? Someone needs to give HB a heads up to talk to their supplier about the inferior quality “petcocks” (lol) that they are stocking.

Ok so let’s make sure we understand where you are talking about placing the toggle switch to turn the compressors on/off. I thought you were running that remote line to the relay, right?

If that’s still the plan, that line is not a power supply line and does not draw any current, especially not 26A. All that’s needed is low current to flip the switch in the relay telling it to allow the current from the actual power supply line pass through to the compressors.

So that line we’re talking about is referred to as a “remote” or “trigger” line. If you’re familar with a car stereo install, it works the same way. Power line is connected to the stereo, and the remote line is patched into an existing line that is switched on/off with your ignition so that your stereo doesn’t stay on all night while you party till you pass out and get up in the morning and can’t start your truck so you can leave what’s her name’s house! LOL

So u either connect that remote or trigger line to:

  1. A line that is switched with your ignition and the compressors will come on only when your ignition is on
  2. A line that is switched with your ignition AND you add a toggle switch in between so you can turn the compressors off when your ignition is on
  3. A line that is always on AND you add a toggle switch in between so you can turn the compressors on/off whenever you want regardless of the ignition status

Hope that all makes sense. Let me know if not or if I’m just way off.

Hang in there bro, you’ll eventually get her licked! :smiley:

BTW - the truck looks awesome

well, Id like to have a toggle switch on an ignition only source so I have a means of shutoff for the compressors. I don’t want to risk running the compressors ever without the truck running so I will keep that to an ignition only source… So all I need is a 30amp source directly from the battery to the pressure switch, then another low voltage feed to a toggle from a switched on source, from there to my toggle, from the toggle to the pressure switch remote wire and Im good? (aside from obvious grounding etc) I know Ive made this install WAAAAAY more difficult than it is lol, but Im trying to make sure my bases are covered.

  1. battery - to fuse - to red wire on pressure switch. (this is your 30amp source)
  2. ignition only source - to toggle - to blue wire on pressure switch. (low amperage)
  3. white wire on pressure switch - to compressor +.
  4. black on pressure switch - to ground.

^ You sir are the man!

Now I ran out of air line for the shockers, so i have to order another 10 feet to finish plumbing the horns…so now the project is on hold. I am in need of some elbow fittings to reduce angle on the hoses coming directly from the horns back to the 4way fittings…Home depot doesn’t have any and HB doesn’t have anything like that in stock…any ideas of an online source? I am having issues with what exactly its called…I want it to thread onto the horn and have the hose fitting (female with the push fitting thread onto the opposite side… I’m a noob LOL way more trouble than I anticipated.

The 90 degree fittings she has attached to her horns in this picture is something I am having trouble finding…

Those are called “street elbows”. Those particular elbows are milled which give them the squared off look. They also make a standard street elbow which is more rounded and rough looking. Depending on what size you need they had some at my local Lowe’s last week when I went in the plumbing dept. In 1/2" I could only find standard street elbows with 1/2" MPT x 1/2" FPT. MPT = male pipe thread, FPT = female pipe thread. I found the milled street elbows in the smaller sizes. You may need couplings and hose fittings too.

If you don’t see them at Lowe’s or Depot, look for a plumbing supply house in your area, specifically one that deals pipe for gas. They typically have a wider selection. I’m sure an online search for street elbows would turn up an online source.
“tube to pipe adapters”

or Curt S might have something.

This will all be worth it in the end.

EDIT: Ahhhh BigYella beat my reply. I didn’t think of doing it that way. At least you could probably find a street elbow locally and put your original straight fitting on it. good one.

hmm, i may have to try curt s before going to another online source. (always nice to help vendors) I needed more 5/16 tubing for two other horns so i just put everything back together for the time being. I’ll have to get those fittings and the tubing and then I can resort back to finalizing the wiring. thank you guys.

(I went to mcmaster-carr, and can find push to connect to female pipe, not to a male(the threads on the shocker horns)

truck looks like butt! (srs…ok not srs :p)

for plumbin fittings also look at:

speckdizz4shizz wuz hurr :cool:

^ they have the fitting i want, but not in my size :frowning: