having problems with compressor not turning off

I have a shocker porn set up with a 5 gallon tank in a 400 c compressor. yesterday I wait on the horn pretty heavy and then went to go hit it again and no sound… I realized today that the tank was just empty however once I turned on the compressor it didn’t want to turn off like it normally does after 5 minutes… any help please?

Welcome. Check for leaks or a stuck open safety valve.

thank you for the welcome and yes I think it is an air leak. this whole air horn thing is new to me so it might take a while for me to diagnose lol. could it be possible for the compressor to burn up if I leave it on

yes, unless it’s an Oasis XD4000 continuous duty compressor. I’m not sure if any other compressor rated for continuous duty can run over 10 hours straight @ 200 PSI.

I think its an air leak for sure… I fear leaving the compressor on for too long without burning it up… I’m new to All of this stuff lol

Its a Viair 400c I know that and runs At150 psi but when I’m under the truck, I hear no sounds of air leaking… Maybe soapy water over the lines to see where it bubbles at?

If you can’t locate it by ear then use a bubble solution.

check valve stuck closed?

Ok guys, so I swapped out the regulator (I think that’s the proper term) on the opposite side of the compressor on the air tank, re-taped everything that screws in with with air seal tape except the spider valve and the compressor steel braided line hose… I think I’ve slowed the leak down at least because the compressor actually kicked off yesterday but it’s got to be a leak because after about 3 min so that leads to tell me there was a leak still… Maybe it’s in the compressor?

Now I go to switch on the compressor to fill my tank and the regulator (solenoid?) That’s at the end of my tank is making a clicking noise… Sounds like a live power line crackling… Compressor doesn’t even turn on now… Whiskey tango foxtrot??? Lol any help??

Are you sure everything is hooked up correctly & with good connections?
Your pressure switch might be foxtrotted. lol

I was going to ask if you had a check valve on your leader hose before your last post, but now IDK.

okay so I switched out my pressure switch and the compressor is now working but I found out why is because the fuse was blown on my power wire lol… actually the fuse was melted into the fuse housing. so I replaced it with 150 amp breaker instead , ( because I figured that won’t blow) however once the tank is full they only take about 5 minutes or more and the compressor turns back on… I know you guys said to check the valve how do I check to see if the valve is stuck open?

You might have gone a little too far with a 150 amp circuit breaker for just 1 Viair compressor.

If the check valve leaks and a bubble solution doesn’t reveal anything on the compressor side, see if air is coming out of the compressor’s intake.

I agree w/ Dan - use soapy water solution on all your fittings to find any leaks.

Couple questions… What gauge is your power wire? How long is it? And how big was the fuse that blew?

150 amp fuse or breaker is way too big unless you have 4ga wire - less than 10ft long.

I have a 10ga wire running the whole way… what size fuse should I use instead? Or could I get another compressor? What are advantages of having 2? Does the tank just fill up faster? And it would require a different hookup for the hoses? (I’m assuming)… I did a bubble solution on the whole setup and found a few leaks which, as bad as it sounds but worked, I jb welded a couple of spots. Please don’t judge lol. There was a little leaking on the compressor steel braided line … Maybe I should re-tape the connection to the compressor? I’m still inn question about the valve and how to know if its “stuck open”…

A 10ga wire is good for 35-40 amps at 15ft long. A bigger fuse could allow the wire to melt before blowing the fuse. If the wire is longer it is rated for less. If it is shorter it will carry more.

Yes, another compressor will fill your tank faster, but it would still leak out just as fast. You would need to add or redo some wiring & there would be another hose going to the tank. You might want to get your leaks figured out first though.

To see if your solenoid valve isn’t closing all the way - I would take the fitting off the discharge side of the valve & use soapy water on the exit port of the valve.

If your check valve isn’t sealing all the way - I would pressurize the tank and then disconnect the leader hose from the compressor head. Use soapy water solution over the end of the hose. There should be no air leaking back through the leader hose. Then when putting it back together use loctite 545 or more tape if that’s what you have.

I took every fitting off that I could get to (minus the spider valve) and re-taped all that I saw and even replaced the steel braided line going from the compressor to the tank because I tried to blow thru it with my mouth and it seemed to take a good amount of effort as compared to the spare hose that I replaced it with. Now, I took out the (what I believe to be) the release valve (which I’ll try to upload the picture of so I know its the correct terminology, and blew thru it pretty easy… Maybe that valve is gone bad and that’s where is leaking from?? The tank only took 7 min to fill (it used to be a little over 10 before the re-tape) and after about 4 min of the tank being full, the comp kicked backed on for another 3 or so min. If that helps, that’s what happened today lol. I think i’m going to order another valve anyway so that might maybe fix my dilemma? Thank you again for your help…

Well my picture won’t upload but basically what i’m trying to describe has a hose coming from the top port of the tank, above the steel braided line comp hose, and feeds into one side of this valve and has the other side line going to the spider valve. This valve is also connected to a positive (and negative ground) that leads up to my button to blast… Now, the trumpets still sound off so i’m thinking the valve is stuck open? But I hear no sound of air leak…

Your solenoid (electric) valve is not stuck open. All the air in your tank would escape and no pressure would build in the tank. There could be some junk in there causing it to leak though.

Totally seperate deal: There should be a check valve at one end of the SS leader hose going from compressor to the tank. It is a simply a one way valve. Air can pass by it into the tank, but then cannot go back towards the compressor. Without this valve, air can/will leak back through the compressor. It also must be installed with the arrow pointed towards the tank.

I think the thing you’re calling a spider valve is just the fitting with multiple ports…? It is just a manifold for splittling up the airlines.

Ok so the solenoid is ruled out lol. On the line coming from the compressor to the tank, I don’t see any valve… At least I don’t think I do. The system ran just fine before and I took a hard turn one day (after letting this fool in traffic get any earload of all 5 gallons for cutting me off lol) then about 2 min later, all the air was gone, and when I hit the button to blast, you could only hear the clicking of the release valve… Can you put up a picture of the valve you’re talking about by chance? I would really greatly appreciate it. And yes, i’ve realized that the spider valve is the manifold lol. Thank you for all this education.