Hey there, new to the forum and had a couple questions regarding my kit. I have a kit that was purchased about 5 years ago and now for the second time the pressure switch went out. The first time it went bad HB replaced it for me for free. I guess I had an older type switch and the silicone sealant tend to fail so they sent out this one HERE.
Now this one is bad and I am wondering if I could use the same type but rated at 145-175 psi. I am wanting a little bit more from my horns if possible. I have the standard kit that came with a 2 gallon tank with the compressor mounted on top. Also for the main air line from the tank to the splitter is 1/4" line. From there to the horns is 5/16" lines. Why would a smaller line feed 4 larger lines. I never thought about it until now. I am wanting to go with 3/8" or 1/2" to the splitter combined with a little more psi I think it would be a littler louder. The thing is on my tank it has only the 1 small port so even if I did go with a bigger air line it would still bottle neck there. So I was thinking and instead of using the pressure switch that directly plumbs into the tank I would use that 2nd port combined with the first port to a T splitter then to 3/8" or 1/2". Do you think this would work? Or maybe ditch the drain port and use that one. I kinda don’t know and if anyone has any ideas or comments that would be greatly appreciated. As you know the economy is not the greatest right now so I am trying to keep the spending at a minimal.
Thanks
You can only use a larger pressure switch if your compressor is rated to go to that psi… most likely your compressor is rated at 145-150 psi since that is the switch they sold you.
As for the issue with the air lines an tank. Depending on the size port on take will depend on your largest air line you can fit… If you have a 1/4" port, you will be limited.
Best bet, Buy a new tank with a 1/2" port. Run 1/2" line to the splitter, then the 5/16" to the horns. This will give you most sound for the buck.
BTW, you are right that the economy is hurting , BUT you spent X amt of dollars on a kit that you now want to upgrade to make more sound… And doing so is going to cost more $. You might as well save up to put the right setup in your vehicle so you wont have to keep spending $ to upgrade a small kit that is not supplying you with the joy of a big kit.
I hear what your saying. I looked at my tank a little more and noticed the relief valve is a 1/2". So I will change that out and use the 5/16" line for the main line and buy a new relief to fit the 1/4" hole. Then I will get the same pressure switch and be done. Maybe I will notice a slight increase when using the 5/16" line for the main instead of the 1/4" line.
One day once I save some money I will get what I really want.
Terry
You probably have the smaller valve too…
People say the upgrade kit makes a big difference. 75 bux
http://www.hornblasters.com/products/details.php?i=shocker-4-1-2-in-valve-upgrade-kit
The small port isn’t helping you any though.
Ya there is a smaller valve on the tank but I will use the relief port which is bigger. My home comp has a 1/4" relief but this little 2 gal tank has a 1/2" port. Kinda strange but I will use it to my advantage.
Terry
Then that upgrade kit is perfect.
Your 2 gallons won’t last as long - lol - but it’ll be louder.
Thanks for the help guys. One last question, how often are you draining your tanks? I noticed a lot of rust in mine today. It’s a pain to drain mine and I know I can go months before doing so. Maybe some kind of in line filter or something like on shop comp.
Terry
Months ago when I blew a cheap air hose.
Broke my draincock, but I have aluminum tanks.
I would like to change my tank out with two aluminum 5gal tanks alongside my frame rails. Cant beat aluminum tanks.
Actually selling my 2 tanks as I’m making a 14gal stainless tank.
These are the black Air Zenith tanks if you would be interested this fall. LMK
Edit:
Sorry for the threadjack Divey-
An inline water trap is usually used on the output from the tank - so wouldn’t keep water from going into the tank. Instead of a draincock you can plumb a 1/4" solenoid valve for a drain. Then just push a button. If it was that easy, I’d do it every week.
No worries bro. I like the idea of the solenoid. I am going to the store today to see what I can come up with for parts. Are there any difference inn the horns I have vs the xl’s.? If mine are plumbed with 5/16" line and I bought the upgrade kit how would the bigger line fit on the horn side. Also is there an easy way to measure fittings. I see a lot of different numbers and letters and it gets pretty confusing.
Terry
E2E how much you asking for your 2 tanks?
I am going to the hardware store and was wondering what type fittings do I need to get. Am I looking in the plumbing section or something else.
Thanks
Terry
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Fittings for the drain? Yeah, the plumbing section, but it depends on what you’re trying to do. I like the brass or stainless pipe fittings. Galvanized will rust within a year.
Thanks, I got all the fittings I needed to convert to 5/16" line now so hopefully that will help. I have been reading the threads on this site and saw some discussions about relays. Should/do I need to use one? I have tapped into my ACC on my truck so power only goes to the comp when the truck is on. I tapped into the stock horn wire to activate the horns. What would a relay do for me if I was going to get one.
Thanks
Terry
A relay for the compressor is so you don’t overload the stock wiring.
You run a decent size wire (with fuse) straight from the battery for power.
Then your stock wiring ACC or IGN only triggers the relay.
The horn solenoid doesn’t draw much. It’s ok to tap into your stock horn wire.
What compressor is it or what is it’s amp rating? Was there a wire size or fuse size recomended?
It’s an older kit that came with a 2 gallon tank with comp mounted on top. Can really remember but I did run the 10g wire from the battery with an inline fuse. I see what you mean by using the relay now. I guess for now since it’s been working for 5 years I will keep it the same but once I upgrade to a bigger kit then I will use a relay. Thanks for the help. Had to order the psi switch since know one in my town carried them. Kinda sucks not having my horn even tho I didn’t use it as much as my wife.
Terry
If your going to upgrade the air line, go to 3/8" minimum…
I went from 3/8" line which was my kit line… Then went to 1/2" for my shockers , (hb4h kit), and then upgraded my k3la to the 5/8" line.
With smaller line you are starving your horns. Since u have to replace all fittings anyhow, go with 3/8" minimum or 1/2" not much $ difference… But a huge sound difference.
How do I do that if the fittings on the horns are 5/16". And the biggest port on my tank is 1/4" and that port is for the relief valve. So I took that off and bought a reducer fitting so now the relief would go into the 1/4" hole. At a 1/2" I would still be bottle necked at the tank hole size, or am I wrong here. That was my understanding from reading and asking questions. I figure since the main feed line was 1/4", changing it to 5/16" the same as the line for the horns it would make some kind of difference. I wish I could get the bigger setup kit but with RC’s being my main hobby which takes up hundreds/thousands of dollars my wife won’t allow it right now.
Terry
If the relief valve is in the 1/2" port, move it to a different port via a reducer / bushing…
then utilize that 1/2" port.