So I have had my horn setup on the truck for months now,it has worked flawlessly until last night. I blew the horns a few times and the comps came on,I came to a stop light and I noticed smoke and a burning smell in the cab,I pulled over and the power wire to my hornblasters pressure switch/relay was burning,had melted the rubber and smoke rolling off the wire. I quickly yanked the wire out of the distribution block and it stopped. While all this was going on,one comp had stopped running and the other was running very slow,but the wire was still smoking.Sad thing is,I had the wire ran along with all the other wires for the comps and switch and they all melted together,so now I have a hot mess to fix. I used 10ga wires to power the comps,so was the wire to small or did something else go wrong. It doesnt make since they ran fine for a few month?!?!
Wow, sounds like something shorted out.
What size fuses do you run?
This is scary as to i just put two 444c’s at 200 PSI on my 12 gallon tank lol.
Ok First off pull the fuses or unhook the wires from the battery including the smaller 14 gauge switch wires. Did you use the 12 gauge fuse blocks that HB provides? I did not like this as to they sent me 10 gauge wire with 12 gauge fuse blocks so i went and purchsed some 10 gauge fuse blocks and used 35 amp fuses.
I would start by looking taking all the wires off of the relays and OHMing or toning them out. without power on them the 12volt coil side should ohm/tone out! if they do not the windings are bad.
Next ohm/tone out the contactor side (which really sounds like the problem to me) They SHOULD NOT ohm/tone out without power on them, If they do or even one does it has failed and welded shut causeing the compressors to run until they overloaded and overheated, DO ou have a gauge in the truck? If the even one compressor contactor/relay failed it would cause the compressor to run until it dead heads or heat overloads and fails. which can happen through the ires but should have popped a fuse first.
Also ohm/tone out the pressure switch. It should tone out if the psi in the tank is below the on setting of the switch “Hense below 165 it will ohm/tone out above 200 it will be open and not ohm/tone out.” You WILL have to fill the tank up to 200 or 205 to see this contactor open, if it does not open then it has failed. I would not let it get above 215 PSI. does it have the 235 pop off? again what pressure was the air gauge at when the failure happened. this will explain if its a contactor failure, or pressure switch failure. If the wires grounded out it should have popped the fuse immediately and not have let the comps run and burn up the wires. Please give us more info as I hope it will help us help you.
Also if only one compressor was pulled in it leads me to believe a relay welded shut, or the other burnt the fuse or kicked out on heat overload ( which i dont even know if the compressors have) But they should lol
It also sounds like the comp wires melted into the switch wires giving a feedback effect making the lower gauge wire fail first or fry. If this post shows first the Much longer one below had to be proof read by the moderators before they would let it post, I am sure its a spam Lookout
This is scary as to i just put two 444c’s at 200 PSI on my 12 gallon tank lol.
Ok First off pull the fuses or unhook the wires from the battery including the smaller 14 gauge switch wires. Did you use the 12 gauge fuse blocks that HB provides? I did not like this as to they sent me 10 gauge wire with 12 gauge fuse blocks so i went and purchsed some 10 gauge fuse blocks and used 35 amp fuses.
I would start by looking taking all the wires off of the relays and OHMing or toning them out. without power on them the 12volt coil side should ohm/tone out! if they do not the windings are bad.
Next ohm/tone out the contactor side (which really sounds like the problem to me) They SHOULD NOT ohm/tone out without power on them, If they do or even one does it has failed and welded shut causeing the compressors to run until they overloaded and overheated, DO ou have a gauge in the truck? If the even one compressor contactor/relay failed it would cause the compressor to run until it dead heads or heat overloads and fails. which can happen through the ires but should have popped a fuse first.
Also ohm/tone out the pressure switch. It should tone out if the psi in the tank is below the on setting of the switch “Hense below 165 it will ohm/tone out above 200 it will be open and not ohm/tone out.” You WILL have to fill the tank up to 200 or 205 to see this contactor open, if it does not open then it has failed. I would not let it get above 215 PSI. does it have the 235 pop off? again what pressure was the air gauge at when the failure happened. this will explain if its a contactor failure, or pressure switch failure. If the wires grounded out it should have popped the fuse immediately and not have let the comps run and burn up the wires. Please give us more info as I hope it will help us help you.
Also if only one compressor was pulled in it leads me to believe a relay welded shut, or the other burnt the fuse or kicked out on heat overload ( which i dont even know if the compressors have) But they should lol
I didn’t say anything bad in my longer post!!! I guess they are not going to let it post up due to my electrical concerns of a fuse block product. I will PM you the whole message later tonight as i have it saved!!!
Did you have a link in your post?
This has happened to me twice now - the post is just gone…
So much for trying to help a guy out, right?
No links at all just a really long post on how to troubleshoot the electrical system. It was 98 percent help and had nothing bashing in It. Maybe a question of why it was used but no bashing. I person"ly like their products and support
Yeah, pretty sure it’s just a spam trigger. Mine have been helpful posts too.
Spent a good amount of time trying to help someone out - then poof.
Back on topic: Born2ride - any updates?
Thanks for the help guys! No I have not had a chance to even look at it,Im going to hate to re-do all that wiring.I have a 150amp fuse supplying a distribution block with 0ga,then the 10ga is leaving the distribution block with a 75amp fuse to the hornblasters switch/relay.As far as I can tell the power wire to the switch/relay was to small and could not withstand the heat,it fried from the distribution block all the way to the switch /relay and since I had it ran with all my other wires,well you can imagine the mess.But the power and ground wires coming out of the comps were fine.I dont mind running a larger wire,I just want to make sure it wasnt something else.Like i said it hasnt been a problem for months
A 75 amp fuse is too big for 10ga wire. If there is a short somewhere or a compressor seizes, enough heat could be generated to melt the insulation before the fuse pops.
Use a fuse just big enough for the equipment being protected. Probably 40amp would’ve saved ya.
I am running a 35 dayum thats to much fuse. You dont need my whole write up lol, you just answered your own problem question. put some 35’s in there and then start this trouble shooting. I will post it in several post so it will show up.
This is scary as to i just put two 444c’s at 200 PSI on my 12 gallon tank lol.
Ok First off pull the fuses or unhook the wires from the battery including the smaller 14 gauge switch wires. Did you use the 12 gauge fuse blocks that HB provides? I did not like this as to they sent me 10 gauge wire with 12 gauge fuse blocks so i went and purchsed some 10 gauge fuse blocks and used 35 amp fuses.
I would start by looking taking all the wires off of the relays and OHMing or toning them out. without power on them the 12volt coil side should ohm/tone out! if they do not the windings are bad.
Next ohm/tone out the contactor side (which really sounds like the problem to me) They SHOULD NOT ohm/tone out without power on them, If they do or even one does it has failed and welded shut causeing the compressors to run until they overloaded and overheated, DO ou have a gauge in the truck? If the even one compressor contactor/relay failed it would cause the compressor to run until it dead heads or heat overloads and fails. which can happen through the wires but should have popped a fuse first.
Also ohm/tone out the pressure switch. It should tone out if the psi in the tank is below the on setting of the switch “Hense below 165 it will ohm/tone out above 200 it will be open and not ohm/tone out.” You WILL have to fill the tank up to 200 or 205 to see this contactor open, if it does not open then it has failed. I would not let it get above 215 PSI. does it have the 235 pop off? again what pressure was the air gauge at when the failure happened. this will explain if its a contactor failure, or pressure switch failure. If the wires grounded out it should have popped the fuse immediately and not have let the comps run and burn up the wires. Please give us more info as I hope it will help us help you.
Also if only one compressor was pulled in it leads me to believe a relay welded shut, or the other burnt the fuse or kicked out on heat overload ( which i dont even know if the compressors have) But they should lol
I do not have a guage in the truck it is only on the tank,it has a 235psi pop off valve. It really happened rather quick,I got in the truck I pulled off and I blew the horn and the comps kicked on,so that tells me the switch was working,then I rode thru the parking lot couple hundred feet and blew it agian,comps kept running. Then I pulled out of the parking lot went 300 feet and came to a stop sign and thats when I started smelling burnt wire.So I know the psi had not got back to 200 yet and the comps deff should not have over heated in just 3-4 minutes.From what you guys have mentioned it sounds like maybe my HB switch/relay might have failed. So even if something had shorted out,shouldnt it had popped my fuse? The one comp kept running very slow,while the other one had stopped during the time the wire was cooking…
If the wire can’t carry enough current to blow the fuse - it will not pop.
So if the fuse isn’t small enough to pop - then the wire can melt.
I wonder if the insulation wore through and touched metal somewhere.
Did the wire pass through any sheetmetal where maybe you didn’t use a gromet?
If the wire grounded out somewhere that could explain why the compressors slowed or stopped.
I used a rubber grommet where the wire passed thru. The reason I think it was the switch/relay is because if the power wire to the switch would have shorted out,it would have effected both comps since they both use the same power wire. So since one stopped and the other kept halfway running tells me,either that one comp locked up or the relay messed up. Its kind of hard to check wires and track the problem down because all the wires have melted together.I guess im just going to have to remove all the burnt wires and check each component individually until I track down the problem.
sound like our gonna have to rewire it then start checking stuff, Invest in a in cab gauge. helps me know when its time for my comps to shut down
same thing happened to me my poop melted to lol, havent had a chance to rewire any of it yet, hope it all works in time for spring 