Izzy, thanks for the info.
hondayguy (I’m very impressed with your horns, very clean job!),
Where did you get the internal parts for the rebuild?
My RS-3L came pretty clean, they had been taken apart and cleaned, then put back together by the original owner; not a real rebuilding job, though. I pulled them apart after reading a few threads about it, being very careful. Most everything looked good, except for one of the diaphrams had a little tear in the silcon/rubber. I carefully added some military grade silicon to it and it appears good now.
In between the bell and rear chamber, there was also a rubber round gasket that is very old (on all three bells). This appeared pre-formed with some grooves in it. I cut my own rubber gasket from 1/8" black rubber, but I think it was too thick, because air is NOW leaking out of the paper gasket areas.
I have heard you can make new paper gaskets from a roll of gasket material. I am familiar with the cork gasketing for trucks/cars, but haven’t seen the paper gasketing material anywhere, but I haven’t really looked for it.
I just read on some other forums, that one should use a manual valve such as a Graham-White or Vilco, to make the RS-3L sound better. My friend at Viair told me to use an SMC automatic valve. The automatic SMC valve can go right next to the horn (good), whereas a manual switch has to be close to the driver, plus the length:(…etc etc.
I’m just trying to get more info from those who know ( and have walked the path before me) before I do anything stupid.
I like the present dirty-ish look they have, because they will blend-in with the bottom of my F350. If they are clean and shiny, they will stand out and may disappear (get stolen). Getting under this 12" lifted beast w/40" tires is pretty easy.
ANd after looking at my undercarriage, it appears a set of two 5 or 8 gallon tanks will be best. I can’t really find a good spot for the 4 foot long 12 gallon tank.
